SHOE SALE!!!!!!

[zencycle]

That sucked you in, didn't it?

Actually I'm looking for a link to good deals on cycling shoes. It's
for a friend just getting into cycling, and he rides toe straps. He's
looking for a reasonably stiff shoe that he can walk somewhat normally
in but would be more efficient than the sneakers (cross trainers) he
wears now.

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> Actually I'm looking for a link to good deals on cycling shoes. It's
> for a friend just getting into cycling, and he rides toe straps. He's
> looking for a reasonably stiff shoe that he can walk somewhat normally
> in but would be more efficient than the sneakers (cross trainers) he
> wears now.

Best bet is your local dealer, not just because they might have some older
model closeouts, but more importantly because fit is probably at least as
important in a cycling shoe as it is getting the right setup (size &
adjustments) for the bike itself.

You only have three interfaces to your bike. You hands, butt and feet. All
of those should be made as comfortable as possible, if you expect someone to
want to ride much. Good-fitting comfortable shoes are an essential part of
enjoying cycling. As I tell customers looking at shoes, fit is more
important than features (or price).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

[jbollyn@gmail.com]

On Oct 2, 2:24 pm, zencycle <zency...@bikerider.com> wrote:
> That sucked you in, didn't it?
>
> Actually I'm looking for a link to good deals on cycling shoes. It's
> for a friend just getting into cycling, and he rides toe straps. He's
> looking for a reasonably stiff shoe that he can walk somewhat normally
> in but would be more efficient than the sneakers (cross trainers) he
> wears now.

SPD Mountain.

I like these http://www.pearlizumi.com/product.php?mode=view&pc_id=43&product_id=944315
but there are plenty of others.

There are many reviews at the following link
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Shoes/product_129605.shtml .

Definitely try them on before purchase. They should be ~ 1/2 size
smaller than street shoes, because you don't want your foot moving
around inside the shoe.

- Jay

[still me]

On Tue, 02 Oct 2007 19:24:45 -0000, zencycle <zencycle@bikerider.com>
wrote:

>That sucked you in, didn't it?
>
>Actually I'm looking for a link to good deals on cycling shoes. It's
>for a friend just getting into cycling, and he rides toe straps. He's
>looking for a reasonably stiff shoe that he can walk somewhat normally
>in but would be more efficient than the sneakers (cross trainers) he
>wears now.

Nashbar is having a one day shoe sale today

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> Definitely try them on before purchase. They should be ~ 1/2 size
> smaller than street shoes, because you don't want your foot moving
> around inside the shoe.

Or not. If anything, a cycling shoe should be longer, not shorter, than your
regular shoe. Why? Because you push forward when you're pedaling, and you
absolutely positively don't want your toes to come in contact with the end
of the shoe.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


<jbollyn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1191413667.274495.82870@d55g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
> On Oct 2, 2:24 pm, zencycle <zency...@bikerider.com> wrote:
>> That sucked you in, didn't it?
>>
>> Actually I'm looking for a link to good deals on cycling shoes. It's
>> for a friend just getting into cycling, and he rides toe straps. He's
>> looking for a reasonably stiff shoe that he can walk somewhat normally
>> in but would be more efficient than the sneakers (cross trainers) he
>> wears now.
>
> SPD Mountain.
>
> I like these
> http://www.pearlizumi.com/product.php?mode=view&pc_id=43&product_id=944315
> but there are plenty of others.
>
> There are many reviews at the following link
> http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Shoes/product_129605.shtml .
>
> Definitely try them on before purchase. They should be ~ 1/2 size
> smaller than street shoes, because you don't want your foot moving
> around inside the shoe.
>
> - Jay
>

[Doug Taylor]

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 05:18:54 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
<mikej1@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>> Definitely try them on before purchase. They should be ~ 1/2 size
>> smaller than street shoes, because you don't want your foot moving
>> around inside the shoe.
>
>Or not. If anything, a cycling shoe should be longer, not shorter, than your
>regular shoe. Why? Because you push forward when you're pedaling, and you
>absolutely positively don't want your toes to come in contact with the end
>of the shoe.

Count me in on "or not."

Among the least comfortable aspects of cycling are aching forefeet and
hot spots, which can become intolerable as the mileage of a ride goes
over 50 or 60, and can be substantially reduced by having slightly
loose shoes.

Shimano sells many models with 1/2 metric sizes, which greatly
increases the possibility of a good fit. I had both road and mountain
shoes sized @ 42 the past two seasons. While off road I never had any
huge issues, on the road I developed such intolerable forefoot pain I
even had to eliminate wearing socks for long mileage rides.

When I found out that I didn't have to move up a full size to 43 (too
loose) and could get a 42 1/2, I took advantage of one of these fall
sales and bought toe pair, one for road and one for off.

Cured the problem.

[Peter Cole]

Doug Taylor wrote:
> On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 05:18:54 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
> <mikej1@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
>>> Definitely try them on before purchase. They should be ~ 1/2 size
>>> smaller than street shoes, because you don't want your foot moving
>>> around inside the shoe.
>> Or not. If anything, a cycling shoe should be longer, not shorter, than your
>> regular shoe. Why? Because you push forward when you're pedaling, and you
>> absolutely positively don't want your toes to come in contact with the end
>> of the shoe.
>
> Count me in on "or not."
>
> Among the least comfortable aspects of cycling are aching forefeet and
> hot spots, which can become intolerable as the mileage of a ride goes
> over 50 or 60, and can be substantially reduced by having slightly
> loose shoes.

Me, too. When I bought my first pair of clipless shoes the clueless
sales droid gave me the usual small is beautiful. I got tired of losing
both my big toenails every summer. For brevet riding I eventually went
up 2 (Euro) sizes from there. Oversize is great for long rides and
winter riding (extra socks).

[A Muzi]

>> "Mike Jacoubowsky" <mikej1@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>>>> Definitely try them on before purchase. They should be ~ 1/2 size
>>>> smaller than street shoes, because you don't want your foot moving
>>>> around inside the shoe.
>>> Or not. If anything, a cycling shoe should be longer, not shorter,
>>> than your regular shoe. Why? Because you push forward when you're
>>> pedaling, and you absolutely positively don't want your toes to come
>>> in contact with the end of the shoe.

> Doug Taylor wrote:
>> Count me in on "or not."
>> Among the least comfortable aspects of cycling are aching forefeet and
>> hot spots, which can become intolerable as the mileage of a ride goes
>> over 50 or 60, and can be substantially reduced by having slightly
>> loose shoes.

Peter Cole wrote:
> Me, too. When I bought my first pair of clipless shoes the clueless
> sales droid gave me the usual small is beautiful. I got tired of losing
> both my big toenails every summer. For brevet riding I eventually went
> up 2 (Euro) sizes from there. Oversize is great for long rides and
> winter riding (extra socks).

You got that right.
In Primo Levi's holocaust-survivor remembrances he gives a bit of space
to forced work in too-small shoes, an experience he describes as almost
unbearable. Given the context, I thought that said a lot.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[jbollyn@gmail.com]

On Oct 4, 10:52 am, Peter Cole <peter_c...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Doug Taylor wrote:
> > On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 05:18:54 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
> > <mik...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> >>> Definitely try them on before purchase. They should be ~ 1/2 size
> >>> smaller than street shoes, because you don't want your foot moving
> >>> around inside the shoe.
> >> Or not. If anything, a cycling shoe should be longer, not shorter, than your
> >> regular shoe. Why? Because you push forward when you're pedaling, and you
> >> absolutely positively don't want your toes to come in contact with the end
> >> of the shoe.
>
> > Count me in on "or not."
>
> > Among the least comfortable aspects of cycling are aching forefeet and
> > hot spots, which can become intolerable as the mileage of a ride goes
> > over 50 or 60, and can be substantially reduced by having slightly
> > loose shoes.
>
> Me, too. When I bought my first pair of clipless shoes the clueless
> sales droid gave me the usual small is beautiful. I got tired of losing
> both my big toenails every summer. For brevet riding I eventually went
> up 2 (Euro) sizes from there. Oversize is great for long rides and
> winter riding (extra socks).- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

My big toes are OK, but the nail on the next toe is always black.
There is no pain at all. Who cares about toe nails? They are
superfluous, just like hair. Unless one likes to paint them red and
wear open-toed sandals.

My bike shoes are not extremely tight, just snug. Very comfortable for
both riding and walking - J.

[Peter Cole]

jbollyn@gmail.com wrote:
> On Oct 4, 10:52 am, Peter Cole <peter_c...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Doug Taylor wrote:
>>> On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 05:18:54 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
>>> <mik...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>>>>> Definitely try them on before purchase. They should be ~ 1/2 size
>>>>> smaller than street shoes, because you don't want your foot moving
>>>>> around inside the shoe.
>>>> Or not. If anything, a cycling shoe should be longer, not shorter, than your
>>>> regular shoe. Why? Because you push forward when you're pedaling, and you
>>>> absolutely positively don't want your toes to come in contact with the end
>>>> of the shoe.
>>> Count me in on "or not."
>>> Among the least comfortable aspects of cycling are aching forefeet and
>>> hot spots, which can become intolerable as the mileage of a ride goes
>>> over 50 or 60, and can be substantially reduced by having slightly
>>> loose shoes.
>> Me, too. When I bought my first pair of clipless shoes the clueless
>> sales droid gave me the usual small is beautiful. I got tired of losing
>> both my big toenails every summer. For brevet riding I eventually went
>> up 2 (Euro) sizes from there. Oversize is great for long rides and
>> winter riding (extra socks).- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> My big toes are OK, but the nail on the next toe is always black.
> There is no pain at all. Who cares about toe nails? They are
> superfluous, just like hair. Unless one likes to paint them red and
> wear open-toed sandals.
>
> My bike shoes are not extremely tight, just snug. Very comfortable for
> both riding and walking - J.
>

If you are getting any black toenails, something is wrong. You should
rethink your idea of cycling shoes being that small. At a minimum you
should qualify your advice with the black toenail phenomenon, most
people have a less nonchalant attitude -- even those who don't paint them.

[Michael Press]

In article
<1191586543.583981.35700@o80g2000hse.googlegroups.c om>,
"jbollyn@gmail.com" <jbollyn@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Oct 4, 10:52 am, Peter Cole <peter_c...@comcast.net> wrote:
> > Doug Taylor wrote:
> > > On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 05:18:54 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
> > > <mik...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> >
> > >>> Definitely try them on before purchase. They should be ~ 1/2 size
> > >>> smaller than street shoes, because you don't want your foot moving
> > >>> around inside the shoe.
> > >> Or not. If anything, a cycling shoe should be longer, not shorter, than your
> > >> regular shoe. Why? Because you push forward when you're pedaling, and you
> > >> absolutely positively don't want your toes to come in contact with the end
> > >> of the shoe.
> >
> > > Count me in on "or not."
> >
> > > Among the least comfortable aspects of cycling are aching forefeet and
> > > hot spots, which can become intolerable as the mileage of a ride goes
> > > over 50 or 60, and can be substantially reduced by having slightly
> > > loose shoes.
> >
> > Me, too. When I bought my first pair of clipless shoes the clueless
> > sales droid gave me the usual small is beautiful. I got tired of losing
> > both my big toenails every summer. For brevet riding I eventually went
> > up 2 (Euro) sizes from there. Oversize is great for long rides and
> > winter riding (extra socks).- Hide quoted text -
>
> My big toes are OK, but the nail on the next toe is always black.
> There is no pain at all. Who cares about toe nails? They are
> superfluous, just like hair. Unless one likes to paint them red and
> wear open-toed sandals.

If you cannot feel the problem, and it is a problem,
that is another problem. One of the indicators of
untreated diabetes is loss of feeling in the toes,
then gangrene. Seek medical attention now.

> My bike shoes are not extremely tight, just snug. Very comfortable for
> both riding and walking

--
Michael Press

[Guy Anderson, Sr.]

On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 12:15:43 -0000, "jbollyn@gmail.com"
<jbollyn@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>My big toes are OK, but the nail on the next toe is always black.
>There is no pain at all. Who cares about toe nails? They are
>superfluous, just like hair. Unless one likes to paint them red and
>wear open-toed sandals.
>
>My bike shoes are not extremely tight, just snug. Very comfortable for
>both riding and walking - J.

I inserted a pair of hi-tech, heat formed insoles into my Sidis, and
wound up with solid black big toenails. Lost the left one, now
rejuvenating slowly. Conclusion: the insoles reduced the effective
size of the shoes. I therefore agree with the previous responder:
your shoes are too small--toebox is too tight and/or too short.

Also, I hope that you test negative for diabetes, but getting tested
is a good idea.