3W Cree LED Flashlight from Lowe's

[SMS]

The Task Force 3 Watt LED Flashlight from Lowe's, Model FT-NS-2C-3W Item
# 225285, SKU 6937481300067, has been discussed a lot on the Candlepower
forums regarding its use as a bicycle light but I don't think it's been
mentioned here.

This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
both, and some have only the Cree version.

This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street signs.

While it is definitely a spot beam as opposed to a flood beam, you don't
really have the problem of the cheaper battery powered lights, and of
most dynamo lights, of insufficient peripheral illumination as the
amount of spill solves this problem. The spill of a spot beam is
actually a positive for bicycle lights that use a spot beam because
without sufficient spill you are not able to sufficiently illuminate off
to the sides or up to road signs.

Compared to the cost of dedicated 3W Cree bicycle lights, this
flashlight is a real bargain. Use it with a TwoFish mounting block (get
the reinforced one which is $10).

You can see it in the package at
"http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0715.JPG".

[DanKMTB@gmail.com]

On Oct 15, 6:11 pm, DougC <dcim...@norcom2000.com> wrote:
> SMS wrote:
> > The Task Force 3 Watt LED Flashlight from Lowe's, Model FT-NS-2C-3W Item
> > # 225285, SKU 6937481300067, has been discussed a lot on the Candlepower
> > forums regarding its use as a bicycle light but I don't think it's been
> > mentioned here.
> > ......
> > Compared to the cost of dedicated 3W Cree bicycle lights, this
> > flashlight is a real bargain. Use it with a TwoFish mounting block (get
> > the reinforced one which is $10).
>
> ....
>
> It's a bummer we have no flashlightreviews for viewing tests anymore.
>
> The problem with a lot of the higher-output LED flashlights is that
> (like the earlier incandescents) they have a peak brightness for the
> first couple minutes and then get considerably dimmer.
>
> With incandescent flashlights this was due to the battery
> voltage/current dropping off, with LEDs it's due to the LED heating up
> and the driver circuit throttling its output down somewhat. You
> especially see this with the no-name Chinese stuff, but others do it
> too. I recall the Mag-LED conversion "bulbs" suffered it too.
> ~

I considered this light as well as the CREE L2DCE, and have not pulled
the trigger on either yet. My concern with the L2DCE is inadequate
light, especially off road. Still, this has been my leading
contender.

I liked the thought of the Task Force, until I read about the
batteries rattling in the housing and the light flickering on and off
on bumpy roads. Since I can just bring the TF back to Lowe's if I am
not happy with it, I'll still probably try one if I can get my hands
on one. My local Lowe's does not have the CREE one yet.

[RBrickston]

In article <4713e263$0$79944$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>,
scharf.steven@geemail.com says...
> The Task Force 3 Watt LED Flashlight from Lowe's, Model FT-NS-2C-3W Item
> # 225285, SKU 6937481300067, has been discussed a lot on the Candlepower
> forums regarding its use as a bicycle light but I don't think it's been
> mentioned here.
>
> This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
> for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
> are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
> number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
> and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
> Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
> both, and some have only the Cree version.
>
> This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
> illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street signs.
>
> While it is definitely a spot beam as opposed to a flood beam, you don't
> really have the problem of the cheaper battery powered lights, and of
> most dynamo lights, of insufficient peripheral illumination as the
> amount of spill solves this problem. The spill of a spot beam is
> actually a positive for bicycle lights that use a spot beam because
> without sufficient spill you are not able to sufficiently illuminate off
> to the sides or up to road signs.
>
> Compared to the cost of dedicated 3W Cree bicycle lights, this
> flashlight is a real bargain. Use it with a TwoFish mounting block (get
> the reinforced one which is $10).
>
> You can see it in the package at
> "http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0715.JPG".
>

I wonder how many hours?

[autopi]

> This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
> for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
> are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
> number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
> and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
> Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
> both, and some have only the Cree version.
>
> This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
> illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street signs.

Thanks for posting this--very useful info!

On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
a leg, or up by the crown)? I've been thinking about this because of
some claims I've read here by advocates of dynamo lights, saying that
it's better to have the light mounted lower down to better illuminate
the road surface. Any thoughts?

[russellseaton1@yahoo.com]

On Oct 15, 4:59 pm, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
> The Task Force 3 Watt LED Flashlight from Lowe's, Model FT-NS-2C-3W Item
> # 225285, SKU 6937481300067, has been discussed a lot on the Candlepower
> forums regarding its use as a bicycle light but I don't think it's been
> mentioned here.

What do you mean you don't think its been mentioned here? Wow, you
sure have a memory.

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/browse_frm/thread/6a93ec82ca68730/2a76187d09be6519?lnk=gst&q=lowes#2a76187d09be6519

Victor Kan mentioned it on October 2. You replied to his email on
October 2 and October 3. This is what you wrote in your October 3
reply.

On Oct 3, 7:02 pm, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
> Victor Kan wrote:
> > That thing is a very tight beam and throws *very* far. It's the
> > first, single LED light I've tried that punches through the shadows on
> > roads that have bright street lighting with trees and distance between
> > lamps causing very dark patches that are hard to see.
>
> The Lowe's near me still has the old Luxeon 3W version of this
> flashlight. From what I've read, the Cree version is _much_ better, so I
> didn't get the Luxeon version (which clearly says Luxeon on the
> package). Apparently the UPC code and the model number are the same on
> the Cree and Luxeon versions.
>
> It's interesting that we've come so full circle in bicycle lights, that
> a "flashlight on the handlebars" is now one of the best bicycle lights
> available in terms of the beam.
>
> I also saw a Coast flashlight at Lowe' with an unspecified 3W LED, and
> an adjustable spot to flood lens.






>
> This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
> for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
> are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
> number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
> and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
> Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
> both, and some have only the Cree version.
>
> This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
> illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street signs.
>
> While it is definitely a spot beam as opposed to a flood beam, you don't
> really have the problem of the cheaper battery powered lights, and of
> most dynamo lights, of insufficient peripheral illumination as the
> amount of spill solves this problem. The spill of a spot beam is
> actually a positive for bicycle lights that use a spot beam because
> without sufficient spill you are not able to sufficiently illuminate off
> to the sides or up to road signs.
>
> Compared to the cost of dedicated 3W Cree bicycle lights, this
> flashlight is a real bargain. Use it with a TwoFish mounting block (get
> the reinforced one which is $10).
>
> You can see it in the package at
> "http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0715.JPG".

[Matt O'Toole]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 14:59:29 -0700, SMS wrote:

> The Task Force 3 Watt LED Flashlight from Lowe's, Model FT-NS-2C-3W Item
> # 225285, SKU 6937481300067, has been discussed a lot on the Candlepower
> forums regarding its use as a bicycle light but I don't think it's been
> mentioned here.
>
> This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
> for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
> are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
> number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
> and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
> Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
> both, and some have only the Cree version.
>
> This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
> illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street
> signs.
>
> While it is definitely a spot beam as opposed to a flood beam, you don't
> really have the problem of the cheaper battery powered lights, and of
> most dynamo lights, of insufficient peripheral illumination as the
> amount of spill solves this problem. The spill of a spot beam is
> actually a positive for bicycle lights that use a spot beam because
> without sufficient spill you are not able to sufficiently illuminate off
> to the sides or up to road signs.
>
> Compared to the cost of dedicated 3W Cree bicycle lights, this
> flashlight is a real bargain. Use it with a TwoFish mounting block (get
> the reinforced one which is $10).
>
> You can see it in the package at
> "http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0715.JPG".

Thanks for the info. I'm sure some people will find this useful, but for
me, a C cell flashlight is way too big and clunky for my bike.

Some AA lights like the Fenix could make great bike lights, for a lot less
money than ones marketed as bike lights.

Instead of the Twofish block, use a glob of muffler and gas tank repair
putty to make a mount. Wax the handlebar and the light, stick the putty
on the handlebar, and mount the light on the putty with a rubber band.
Adjust the aim and let it set.

I have yet to find a replacement for my old Cateye Micro halogen without
spending at least $100. Some of these new LED flashlights may do it
though.

Almost all bike lights are crappy and/or overpriced.

Matt O.

[russellseaton1@yahoo.com]

On Oct 15, 4:59 pm, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
> The Task Force 3 Watt LED Flashlight from Lowe's, Model FT-NS-2C-3W Item
> # 225285, SKU 6937481300067, has been discussed a lot on the Candlepower
> forums regarding its use as a bicycle light but I don't think it's been
> mentioned here.
>
> This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
> for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
> are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
> number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
> and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
> Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
> both, and some have only the Cree version.
>
> This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
> illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street signs.
>
> While it is definitely a spot beam as opposed to a flood beam, you don't
> really have the problem of the cheaper battery powered lights, and of
> most dynamo lights, of insufficient peripheral illumination as the
> amount of spill solves this problem. The spill of a spot beam is
> actually a positive for bicycle lights that use a spot beam because
> without sufficient spill you are not able to sufficiently illuminate off
> to the sides or up to road signs.
>
> Compared to the cost of dedicated 3W Cree bicycle lights, this
> flashlight is a real bargain. Use it with a TwoFish mounting block (get
> the reinforced one which is $10).
>
> You can see it in the package at
> "http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0715.JPG".


I finally used my Lowes Task Force 3W CREE LED light on a night ride
over the weekend. It really did not work well. The TwoFish
CyclopBlock holder tended to turn when hitting big bumps.
Particularly rumble strips. Some friction tape around the handlebar
where the TwoFish block sits would help. And using the AA holders in
place of the C cells would lighten the flashlight and help keep it
from tipping up or down. The flashlight rattles when riding.
Batteries or light head, I don't know. But it rattles. The LED light
also flickers at times when on slightly rough roads. Flickers on and
off at a lower intensity for awhile. It does eventually go back to
being a decent solid light but it does flicker for awhile every now
and then. Beam is OK for riding. The 2 Duracell C batteries that
came with the light only lasted about 2 hours. Maybe a bit less.
Temps were about 50 degrees fahrenheit. I mounted my flashlight above
the bars beside the stem with the TwoFish block and it is not in the
way too much.

I'd recommend the Fenix L2DCE light above the Lowes Task Force because
of the flickering of the lowes light. I would not recommend the Lowes
light at all for bicycling. Might be a good flashlight but not a good
bicycle light. Run time is also 30 minutes or so less than the Fenix
using Duracell AA or Duracell C batteries.

[SMS]

RBrickston wrote:

> I wonder how many hours?

As many hours as batteries you carry along.

Two 2500mAH AA cells in C adapters would give you about two hours of
illumination. You have to make a slight mod to get AA size batteries to
work with this flashlight as the positive contact is a spring type
contact that doesn't make contact with the small tip of some AA
batteries such as the Sanyo eneloop.

[Jim]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 22:22:31 GMT, RBrickston <rb20170REMOVE@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>In article <4713e263$0$79944$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>,
>scharf.steven@geemail.com says...
>> The Task Force 3 Watt LED Flashlight from Lowe's, Model FT-NS-2C-3W Item
>> # 225285, SKU 6937481300067, has been discussed a lot on the Candlepower
>> forums regarding its use as a bicycle light but I don't think it's been
>> mentioned here.
>>
>> This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
>> for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
>> are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
>> number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
>> and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
>> Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
>> both, and some have only the Cree version.
>>
>> This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
>> illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street signs.
>>
>> While it is definitely a spot beam as opposed to a flood beam, you don't
>> really have the problem of the cheaper battery powered lights, and of
>> most dynamo lights, of insufficient peripheral illumination as the
>> amount of spill solves this problem. The spill of a spot beam is
>> actually a positive for bicycle lights that use a spot beam because
>> without sufficient spill you are not able to sufficiently illuminate off
>> to the sides or up to road signs.
>>
>> Compared to the cost of dedicated 3W Cree bicycle lights, this
>> flashlight is a real bargain. Use it with a TwoFish mounting block (get
>> the reinforced one which is $10).
>>
>> You can see it in the package at
>> "http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0715.JPG".
>>
>
>I wonder how many hours?

Any idea of how it compares to some of the stuff from DealExtreme.com?
They have some similar items for about 1/3 the price. I've had good
luck ordering from them in the past.

[SMS]

SMS wrote:
> RBrickston wrote:
>
>> I wonder how many hours?
>
> As many hours as batteries you carry along.
>
> Two 2500mAH AA cells in C adapters would give you about two hours of
> illumination. You have to make a slight mod to get AA size batteries to
> work with this flashlight as the positive contact is a spring type
> contact that doesn't make contact with the small tip of some AA
> batteries such as the Sanyo eneloop.

Note that you can buy 5000 mAH C cells from
"http://www.zbattery.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1509/.f?sc=2&category=1941" for
$4.50 each. However most people don't have chargers for C cells.

[Mike Kruger]

SMS wrote:
> RBrickston wrote:
>
>> I wonder how many hours?
>
> As many hours as batteries you carry along.
>
> Two 2500mAH AA cells in C adapters would give you about two hours of
> illumination. You have to make a slight mod to get AA size batteries
> to work with this flashlight as the positive contact is a spring type
> contact that doesn't make contact with the small tip of some AA
> batteries such as the Sanyo eneloop.

The adapters referred to can be found here:
http://www.thomasdistributing.com/batteryadapter-index.htm

--
Mike Kruger
Give no quarter to the paradigm people.

[SMS]

Mike Kruger wrote:
> SMS wrote:
>> RBrickston wrote:
>>
>>> I wonder how many hours?
>> As many hours as batteries you carry along.
>>
>> Two 2500mAH AA cells in C adapters would give you about two hours of
>> illumination. You have to make a slight mod to get AA size batteries
>> to work with this flashlight as the positive contact is a spring type
>> contact that doesn't make contact with the small tip of some AA
>> batteries such as the Sanyo eneloop.
>
> The adapters referred to can be found here:
> http://www.thomasdistributing.com/batteryadapter-index.htm

Also, two D adapters and two C adapters come with the Sanyo eneloop kit
sold at Costco.

[A Muzi]

>> This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
>> for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
>> are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
>> number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
>> and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
>> Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
>> both, and some have only the Cree version.
>> This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
>> illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street signs.

autopi wrote:
> Thanks for posting this--very useful info!
> On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
> securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
> wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
> a leg, or up by the crown)? I've been thinking about this because of
> some claims I've read here by advocates of dynamo lights, saying that
> it's better to have the light mounted lower down to better illuminate
> the road surface. Any thoughts?

Get a _secure_ mounting. A light in a front wheel is a mess. And dangerous.
'Secure' means resistant to vibration, water and passersby who may ditz
with your equipment when it's parked. The stakes are high. Very high.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[SMS]

autopi wrote:

> Thanks for posting this--very useful info!
>
> On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
> securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
> wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
> a leg, or up by the crown)? I've been thinking about this because of
> some claims I've read here by advocates of dynamo lights, saying that
> it's better to have the light mounted lower down to better illuminate
> the road surface. Any thoughts?

With most dynamo lights it helps to mount them lower because of the
limited illumination they provide.

With more powerful lights, such as the Cree LED lights (including the
dynamo powered Solidlights 1203D which uses Cree LEDs) you don't have to
worry about getting the light that low. The Solidlights 1203D has
handlebar and helmet mounts, but no fork mount. There are disadvanatges
to mounting the light lower as well.

Here is how someone mounted this flashlight to their front rack:
"http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2006/03/flashlight-bracket.html"

Also remember that the lights that mount to the fork are the light only,
not the power source as in this case. Mounting a light plastic case lamp
to a fork is a lot easier than mounting a metal flashlight with two
batteries in it.

[russellseaton1@yahoo.com]

On Oct 15, 7:13 pm, autopi <iamnetf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
> > for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
> > are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
> > number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
> > and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
> > Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
> > both, and some have only the Cree version.
>
> > This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
> > illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street signs.
>
> Thanks for posting this--very useful info!
>
> On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
> securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
> wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
> a leg, or up by the crown)? I've been thinking about this because of
> some claims I've read here by advocates of dynamo lights, saying that
> it's better to have the light mounted lower down to better illuminate
> the road surface. Any thoughts?

You can use the cheaper TwoFish Lockblock ($5.99) (not the $9.99
reinforced TwoFsh CyclopBlock) to mount the Fenix L2DCE two AA battery
light to a Minoura Besso fork mount. The TwoFish mount is secure.
The Fenix light is light and small. For road riding this would work
well. I have my Fenix mounted on the handlebars with the TwoFish
$5.99 mount block. Works well. But the light throws a huge pattern.
Too wide to be optimal for bike lighting. Still good, but a much
narrower beam would be better for biking. But the Fenix is a
flashlight, not a bike light, and a wide beam probably makes sense for
a flashlight. I use the Minoura Besso fork mounts to put my two
Schmidt E6 generator lights down by the front hub.

My $9.99 TwoFish CyclopBlock is on order so I can try the Lowes 3W
CREE two C cell flashlight on the handlebars. Its beam is bright, and
narrow. But with enough spill to probably work very well for a
bicycle.

[SMS]

autopi wrote:

> On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
> securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
> wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
> a leg, or up by the crown)? I've been thinking about this because of
> some claims I've read here by advocates of dynamo lights, saying that
> it's better to have the light mounted lower down to better illuminate
> the road surface. Any thoughts?

A bit more on this...

Even the U.S. distributor of most of the dynamo lights sold in the U.S.,
Peter White, advises on his web site, "For the most secure mounting, I
always recommend the handlebar mount for any headlight." This is for a
plastic housing lamp with no batteries inside, just think about a metal
flashlight with two C cells inside!

The sole reason for the fork mounting is to maximize the usable light
from a relatively low power dynamo light. This is a trade-off that many
dynamo users are willing to make in order to be self-sufficient without
the hassle of batteries that a more powerful light requires. Besides
being a less secure mount, the light is subjected to a lot more abuse
when it's mounted that low, including more shock and more dirt and water.

If your fork has the braze-on for low-rider panniers (found on touring
bicycles only) then it would be fairly easy to fabricate a secure
mounting method for a flashlight type light on the fork, but unless
that's the case, or unless you want to install a front luggage rack,
follow Peter White's advice regarding the most secure place to mount a
light, and keep it on the handlebars.

A simple TwoFish Cycle Block
("http://www.boomerdirect.shoppingcartsplus.com/catalog/item/1719053/1226129.htm")
is a minimalist approach to mounting a 2C flashlight that works very well.

I've added the Task Force FT-NS-2C-3W to the bicycle lighting web site
at "http://bicyclelighting.com" under the flashlight section. Type
"bicycle flashlight" into Google, then click "I'm Feeling Lucky" and
it'll take you right there.

Steve
"http://bicyclelighting.com"
Or type "bicycle lighting" into Google, then click "I'm Feeling Lucky"

[frkrygow@gmail.com]

On Oct 15, 8:13 pm, autopi <iamnetf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
> securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
> wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
> a leg, or up by the crown)?

Incidentally, there are disadvantages to attaching a headlamp to the
fork leg.

Of course, there's the obvious one, the possibility that it might
loosen and get caught in the spokes. The taper of most fork legs can
make secure mounting more difficult than one might think.

But another disadvantage is that the leading edge of the rim and tire
cast a shadow toward the opposite side of the road. There are times
that shadow will be exactly where you want light.

For this reason, I prefer my lights to be mounted to the fork crown or
a front rack. If my fenders were metal instead of lightweight
plastic, the top of the front fender would be another good choice.

Sheldon Brown uses an interesting compromise with some of his
generator lights, for example http://sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-international/index.html
This looks like it puts the lamp further forward and further outboard
than a fork mount. The rim shadow would thus be further away from the
cyclist's path, thus less trouble.

But I think I'd still prefer a slightly higher light with no rim
shadow.

- Frank Krygowski

[frkrygow@gmail.com]

On Oct 15, 8:29 pm, A Muzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

> autopi wrote:
> > I've been thinking about this because of
> > some claims I've read here by advocates of dynamo lights, saying that
> > it's better to have the light mounted lower down to better illuminate
> > the road surface. Any thoughts?
>
> Get a _secure_ mounting. A light in a front wheel is a mess. And dangerous.
> 'Secure' means resistant to vibration, water and passersby who may ditz
> with your equipment when it's parked. The stakes are high. Very high.

I agree. I know a person whose badly mounted flashlight went into the
front spokes. The result was a header and a broken rib.

- Frank Krygowski

[Crescentius Vespasianus]

A Muzi wrote:
>>> This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
>>> for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
>>> are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
>>> number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
>>> and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
>>> Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
>>> both, and some have only the Cree version.
>>> This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
>>> illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street
>>> signs.
>
> autopi wrote:
>> Thanks for posting this--very useful info!
>> On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
>> securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
>> wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
>> a leg, or up by the crown)? I've been thinking about this because of
>> some claims I've read here by advocates of dynamo lights, saying that
>> it's better to have the light mounted lower down to better illuminate
>> the road surface. Any thoughts?
>
> Get a _secure_ mounting. A light in a front wheel is a mess. And dangerous.
> 'Secure' means resistant to vibration, water and passersby who may ditz
> with your equipment when it's parked. The stakes are high. Very high.
-------------
The fork mount people use is the Minoura
Besso fork mount., which is secure as
anything can be, on a STEEL fork.
Unfortunately they say not to use them
on a carbon fork, which is what most
people have now days. So the fork
mounted light will be rarely seen. I
have one on steel fork that I used on a
cateye 2 watt halogen, that worked
pretty good. I don't think I would
mount a flashlight, which is kind of
long, in two-fish mount, because I've
just seen too much stuff shake off my
bike, through the years that I thought
was secure. Fork mounted lights, were
because the lights weren't strong
enough, but as they get better you won't
need to do that. Unfortunately, I've
had stuff shake off the top, that tried
to get into the wheels too.

[SMS]

A Muzi wrote:

> Get a _secure_ mounting. A light in a front wheel is a mess. And dangerous.
> 'Secure' means resistant to vibration, water and passersby who may ditz
> with your equipment when it's parked. The stakes are high. Very high.

Most of the Cree and Luxeon flashlights have O rings to make them
waterproof (though some O ring grease is a good idea). Still they get
dirty and wet (on the outside) from going through puddles and from
passing cars.

I'd take Peter White's advice to heart on the handlebar being the most
secure place to mount a light, even more so for a light with internal
batteries. Of course the front rack mount that one person used for the
flashlight is equally secure.

The reality is that these Cree LED lights are so powerful, that there is
no read advantage to mounting them on the fork. I understand why trading
off the more secure handlebar mount is sometimes a worthwhile compromise
on dynamo lights, but those reasons don't apply with these very strong
lights. Also, with the beam pattern of these flashlights you'd actually
be wasting a lot of light with a fork mount because they illuminate both
the road surface and the periphery best from a bit higher up. Actually
the rack or crown height is ideal. Using the Minoura Space Grip is
another way to lower the flashlight down from the handlebars, provided
there aren't other items in the way, and it's a good solution for dynamo
lights as well to get them off the fork to a more secure place.

[frkrygow@gmail.com]

On Oct 15, 8:40 pm, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
>
>
> With most dynamo lights it helps to mount them lower because of the
> limited illumination they provide.

<Sigh> Mr. Scharf never misses a chance to denigrate dynamo lights,
and he never misses a chance to make a mistake!

The reason for mounting _any_ light "lower" (that is, at about the
height of the fork crown) is that when mounted that way, road
irregularities become much more visible. Potholes or other
depressions look dark in the beam, because of the shadow of their
closer edge. Speed bumps or other lumps in the road look bright in
the beam.

That's true no matter how bright your light is. A light mounted near
eye level doesn't generate the shadows and other indications of road
roughness and relief, even if it's as bright as a searchlight.
Everything looks "flat."

In this regard, handlebar mounts are better than head mounts; but fork
crown mounts, front fender mounts, or front rack mounts seem to work
best of all...

> Here is how someone mounted this flashlight to their front rack:
> "http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2006/03/flashlight-bracket.html"

.... which is probably why this person chose not to mount that light on
his handlebars.

I suggest a trial of the three different mounting heights - head,
handlebar and "low" mount. A ride around the block should demonstrate
the difference.

- Frank Krygowski

[landotter]

On Oct 15, 7:40 pm, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
> autopi wrote:
> > Thanks for posting this--very useful info!
>
> > On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
> > securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
> > wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
> > a leg, or up by the crown)? I've been thinking about this because of
> > some claims I've read here by advocates of dynamo lights, saying that
> > it's better to have the light mounted lower down to better illuminate
> > the road surface. Any thoughts?
>
> With most dynamo lights it helps to mount them lower because of the
> limited illumination they provide.
>
> With more powerful lights, such as the Cree LED lights (including the
> dynamo powered Solidlights 1203D which uses Cree LEDs) you don't have to
> worry about getting the light that low. The Solidlights 1203D has
> handlebar and helmet mounts, but no fork mount. There are disadvanatges
> to mounting the light lower as well.
>
> Here is how someone mounted this flashlight to their front rack:
> "http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2006/03/flashlight-bracket.html"

Nice! I may have to construct something like that for my front rack.
Perhaps one could use the right sized QR seatpost binder to secure the
light, drilled and p-clamped. I have my LED light epoxied under the
platform which looks sharp--but it wouldn't be the best bet for the OP
Lowe's light.

[SMS]

Jim wrote:
\
> Any idea of how it compares to some of the stuff from DealExtreme.com?
> They have some similar items for about 1/3 the price. I've had good
> luck ordering from them in the past.

I didn't see any C cell powered 3W Cree LED flashlights at DealExtreme,
or any 3W Cree LED flashlights for 1/3 the price for that matter. Most
of their better models use the 18650 Li-Ion battery. In one way this is
an advantage, since the Li-Ion batteries are denser and lighter per wH,
but just as with cameras, there are pros and cons of using standard size
batteries versus Li-Ion batteries.

[vey]

frkrygow@gmail.com wrote:
A ride around the block should demonstrate
> the difference.

It did for me. And I saw with my own eyeballs that shadows do matter.

[Tom Sherman]

frkrygow@gmail.com aka Frank Krygowski wrote:
> ...
> In this regard, handlebar mounts are better than head mounts; but fork
> crown mounts, front fender mounts, or front rack mounts seem to work
> best of all...

When I mount a light on the fork, it mostly lights up the back of my
lower legs and feet, which is not very useful.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
Beer - It's not just for breakfast anymore!

[Tom Keats]

In article <1192501435.032953.12370@q3g2000prf.googlegroups.co m>,
frkrygow@gmail.com writes:

> The reason for mounting _any_ light "lower" (that is, at about the
> height of the fork crown) is that when mounted that way, road
> irregularities become much more visible. Potholes or other
> depressions look dark in the beam, because of the shadow of their
> closer edge. Speed bumps or other lumps in the road look bright in
> the beam.

This is true. But there's an additional advantage
for those of us who use rain capes which drape over
the handlebar, and would obscure any handlebar-
mounted lights.


cheers,
Tom

--
Nothing is safe from me.
I'm really at:
tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca

[SMS]

russellseaton1@yahoo.com wrote:

> You can use the cheaper TwoFish Lockblock ($5.99) (not the $9.99
> reinforced TwoFsh CyclopBlock) to mount the Fenix L2DCE two AA battery
> light to a Minoura Besso fork mount. The TwoFish mount is secure.
> The Fenix light is light and small. For road riding this would work
> well. I have my Fenix mounted on the handlebars with the TwoFish
> $5.99 mount block. Works well. But the light throws a huge pattern.
> Too wide to be optimal for bike lighting. Still good, but a much
> narrower beam would be better for biking. But the Fenix is a
> flashlight, not a bike light, and a wide beam probably makes sense for
> a flashlight. I use the Minoura Besso fork mounts to put my two
> Schmidt E6 generator lights down by the front hub.

Very good point. The Minoura Besso
("http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2389") is very secure,
much more so than the Cronometro NOB that is sold by some stores. Still
not a good systems for a 2C flashlight, but for a 2AA it'd work, so it'd
be a decent mount for the Fenix L2DCE, though unnecessary IMVAIO, and
still subject to the other disadvantages of a fork mount light.

I have the Fenix L2DCE and find it just fine for night riding. Which
reflector do you have in yours? I read that there are two reflectors for
this. Mine has more of spot beam, but with sufficient spill for
peripheral illumination.

I like the Fenix L2DCE, but I want to equip four bicycles with powerful
self-contained lights (no external power source with wires) and the
Fenix L2DCE is too expensive. I was lucky to find the Cree version of
the Taskforce flashlight at a Lowe's in Florida when I was there this
past weekend, as the stores near me in Silicon Valley don't have them.

> My $9.99 TwoFish CyclopBlock is on order so I can try the Lowes 3W
> CREE two C cell flashlight on the handlebars. Its beam is bright, and
> narrow. But with enough spill to probably work very well for a
> bicycle.

[frkrygow@gmail.com]

On Oct 16, 9:51 am, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
> autopi wrote:
> > On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
> > securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
> > wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
> > a leg, or up by the crown)? I've been thinking about this because of
> > some claims I've read here by advocates of dynamo lights, saying that
> > it's better to have the light mounted lower down to better illuminate
> > the road surface. Any thoughts?
>
>
> The sole reason for the fork mounting is to maximize the usable light
> from a relatively low power dynamo light.

Nope. Once again, from http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.misc/msg/26c25e30898a9438

"The reason for mounting _any_ light "lower" (that is, at about the
height of the fork crown) is that when mounted that way, road
irregularities become much more visible. Potholes or other
depressions look dark in the beam, because of the shadow of their
closer edge. Speed bumps or other lumps in the road look bright in
the beam.

That's true no matter how bright your light is.

I suggest a trial of the three different mounting heights - head,
handlebar and "low" mount. A ride around the block should demonstrate
the difference. "

And "vey" responded, in http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.misc/msg/2a25ea7ccf5f5d49

"It did for me. And I saw with my own eyeballs that shadows do matter.
"

It's true that if you mount a flashlight near your front wheel, you'll
need to mount it very solidly indeed. That can require some
mechanical sense. But of course, my headlamps mount using very
sophisticated technology. You know - threaded fasteners! ;-)

- Frank Krygowski

[SMS]

SMS wrote:
> russellseaton1@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> You can use the cheaper TwoFish Lockblock ($5.99) (not the $9.99
>> reinforced TwoFsh CyclopBlock) to mount the Fenix L2DCE two AA battery
>> light to a Minoura Besso fork mount. The TwoFish mount is secure.
>> The Fenix light is light and small. For road riding this would work
>> well. I have my Fenix mounted on the handlebars with the TwoFish
>> $5.99 mount block. Works well. But the light throws a huge pattern.
>> Too wide to be optimal for bike lighting. Still good, but a much
>> narrower beam would be better for biking. But the Fenix is a
>> flashlight, not a bike light, and a wide beam probably makes sense for
>> a flashlight. I use the Minoura Besso fork mounts to put my two
>> Schmidt E6 generator lights down by the front hub.
>
> Very good point. The Minoura Besso

Nashbar has these for $7.95 right now.

[russellseaton1@yahoo.com]

On Oct 16, 9:03 am, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
> russellseat...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > You can use the cheaper TwoFish Lockblock ($5.99) (not the $9.99
> > reinforced TwoFsh CyclopBlock) to mount the Fenix L2DCE two AA battery
> > light to a Minoura Besso fork mount. The TwoFish mount is secure.
> > The Fenix light is light and small. For road riding this would work
> > well. I have my Fenix mounted on the handlebars with the TwoFish
> > $5.99 mount block. Works well. But the light throws a huge pattern.
> > Too wide to be optimal for bike lighting. Still good, but a much
> > narrower beam would be better for biking. But the Fenix is a
> > flashlight, not a bike light, and a wide beam probably makes sense for
> > a flashlight. I use the Minoura Besso fork mounts to put my two
> > Schmidt E6 generator lights down by the front hub.
>
> Very good point. The Minoura Besso
> ("http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2389") is very secure,
> much more so than the Cronometro NOB that is sold by some stores. Still
> not a good systems for a 2C flashlight, but for a 2AA it'd work, so it'd
> be a decent mount for the Fenix L2DCE, though unnecessary IMVAIO, and
> still subject to the other disadvantages of a fork mount light.
>
> I have the Fenix L2DCE and find it just fine for night riding. Which
> reflector do you have in yours? I read that there are two reflectors for
> this. Mine has more of spot beam, but with sufficient spill for
> peripheral illumination.


My Fenix L2DCE was bought from the Fenix Store. It has the orange
peel reflector. On a website called LightHound it has pictures of
both reflectors, smooth and orange peel. Apparently on that site you
can get the flashlight with either.

>
> I like the Fenix L2DCE, but I want to equip four bicycles with powerful
> self-contained lights (no external power source with wires) and the
> Fenix L2DCE is too expensive. I was lucky to find the Cree version of
> the Taskforce flashlight at a Lowe's in Florida when I was there this
> past weekend, as the stores near me in Silicon Valley don't have them.

$31.80 for the Lowes Task Force plus $10 per TwoFish CyclopBlock mount
plus shipping. Sales tax on the flashlight. Or $53.50 for each Fenix
L2DCE plus $5 shipping from one place I saw. And then $15 for three
of the TwoFish LockBlock from Fenix Store free shipping. You can use
the cheaper smaller LockBlock on the L2DCE whereas you have to sue the
heavier bigger expensive holder on the Lowes. In the end not a whole
lot of difference in price. But you mentioned you can get higher amp
hour rechargeable batteries for the C cell Lowes light compared to
half as much amp hour for the AA rechargeables for the Fenix.


>
>
>
> > My $9.99 TwoFish CyclopBlock is on order so I can try the Lowes 3W
> > CREE two C cell flashlight on the handlebars. Its beam is bright, and
> > narrow. But with enough spill to probably work very well for a
> > bicycle.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[vey]

Crescentius Vespasianus wrote:
Unfortunately they say not
> to use them on a carbon fork, which is what most people have now days.

Most people have carbon forks now? Really?

[SMS]

Crescentius Vespasianus wrote:

> The fork mount people use is the Minoura Besso fork mount., which is
> secure as anything can be, on a STEEL fork. Unfortunately they say not
> to use them on a carbon fork, which is what most people have now days.

Wow, I don't think that carbon forks are all that common on the bicycles
that are most typically used for night riding.

The Besso is good for smaller lights, but the for the flashlight
mentioned in this thread it's not.

> Fork mounted lights, were
> because the lights weren't strong enough, but as they get better you
> won't need to do that.

This is true. Even on the more powerful dynamo powered lights, like the
Solidlight 1203D, the need for fork mounting has gone away.

> Unfortunately, I've had stuff shake off the top,
> that tried to get into the wheels too.

Locknuts, Loctite, and dual redundancy.

In any case, I didn't intend to start another thread on the relative
merits of dynamo versus battery lights, just to make people aware of the
availability of a relatively inexpensive flashlight that makes a very
good bicycle light.

Steve
"http://bicyclelighting.com"
Or type "bicycle lighting" into Google, then click "I'm Feeling Lucky"

[russellseaton1@yahoo.com]

On Oct 15, 12:32 pm, Crescentius Vespasianus <jazzyb...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> A Muzi wrote:
> >>> This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
> >>> for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
> >>> are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
> >>> number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
> >>> and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
> >>> Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
> >>> both, and some have only the Cree version.
> >>> This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
> >>> illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street
> >>> signs.
>
> > autopi wrote:
> >> Thanks for posting this--very useful info!
> >> On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
> >> securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
> >> wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
> >> a leg, or up by the crown)? I've been thinking about this because of
> >> some claims I've read here by advocates of dynamo lights, saying that
> >> it's better to have the light mounted lower down to better illuminate
> >> the road surface. Any thoughts?
>
> > Get a _secure_ mounting. A light in a front wheel is a mess. And dangerous.
> > 'Secure' means resistant to vibration, water and passersby who may ditz
> > with your equipment when it's parked. The stakes are high. Very high.
>
> -------------
> The fork mount people use is the Minoura
> Besso fork mount., which is secure as
> anything can be, on a STEEL fork.
> Unfortunately they say not to use them
> on a carbon fork,

Nonsense. Used two Minoura Besso fork mounts on either side of my all
carbon Litespeed Real Design fork from March until September. Did
Paris Brest Paris. Mounted two Schmidt E6 lights on the fork mounts.
Rode many thousands of miles without any problems at all. Solid and
secure.



which is what most
> people have now days. So the fork
> mounted light will be rarely seen. I
> have one on steel fork that I used on a
> cateye 2 watt halogen, that worked
> pretty good. I don't think I would
> mount a flashlight, which is kind of
> long, in two-fish mount, because I've
> just seen too much stuff shake off my
> bike, through the years that I thought
> was secure. Fork mounted lights, were
> because the lights weren't strong
> enough, but as they get better you won't
> need to do that. Unfortunately, I've
> had stuff shake off the top, that tried
> to get into the wheels too.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[Mike Kruger]

Crescentius Vespasianus wrote:

> The fork mount people use is the Minoura
> Besso fork mount., which is secure as
> anything can be, on a STEEL fork.
> Unfortunately they say not to use them
> on a carbon fork, which is what most
> people have now days.

Most people have carbon forks?

Nothing against carbon forks, but they are hardly "what most people have now
days".

[DennisTheBald]

I've got a TaskForce 3W from Lowes, I couldn't say if the package said
Luxeon or 60X...

But I took it on RAGBRAI this summer, I fixed it to the boom with a
couple toe clip straps. No troubles, reasonable bang for the buck.
I'm still going with that setup during my commutes. I like that it
comes off and on pretty easily, as I don't like the idea of leaving a
$30 flashlight in the parking lot, even the secured lot here. I will
probably start going with only one strap as we move into winter, maybe
a ball bungee.

During the winter I will probably have some battery life info for ya,
but now I'm using it so infrequently that I lose count of the number
of trips between battery changes.

[SMS]

russellseaton1@yahoo.com wrote:
> On Oct 15, 4:59 pm, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
>> The Task Force 3 Watt LED Flashlight from Lowe's, Model FT-NS-2C-3W Item
>> # 225285, SKU 6937481300067, has been discussed a lot on the Candlepower
>> forums regarding its use as a bicycle light but I don't think it's been
>> mentioned here.
>
> What do you mean you don't think its been mentioned here? Wow, you
> sure have a memory.
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/browse_frm/thread/6a93ec82ca68730/2a76187d09be6519?lnk=gst&q=lowes#2a76187d09be6519

Okay, I guess my memory isn't what it used to be.

[carlfogel@comcast.net]

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 04:13:48 -0000, frkrygow@gmail.com wrote:

>On Oct 15, 8:13 pm, autopi <iamnetf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> On a side note, I've read some of the discussions about people
>> securing these flashlights to helmets and handlebars, but I was
>> wondering if anyone has any ideas about attaching them to the fork (on
>> a leg, or up by the crown)?
>
>Incidentally, there are disadvantages to attaching a headlamp to the
>fork leg.
>
>Of course, there's the obvious one, the possibility that it might
>loosen and get caught in the spokes. The taper of most fork legs can
>make secure mounting more difficult than one might think.
>
>But another disadvantage is that the leading edge of the rim and tire
>cast a shadow toward the opposite side of the road. There are times
>that shadow will be exactly where you want light.
>
>For this reason, I prefer my lights to be mounted to the fork crown or
>a front rack. If my fenders were metal instead of lightweight
>plastic, the top of the front fender would be another good choice.
>
>Sheldon Brown uses an interesting compromise with some of his
>generator lights, for example http://sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-international/index.html
>This looks like it puts the lamp further forward and further outboard
>than a fork mount. The rim shadow would thus be further away from the
>cyclist's path, thus less trouble.
>
>But I think I'd still prefer a slightly higher light with no rim
>shadow.
>
>- Frank Krygowski

Dear Frank,

Hanging the lamp from the front axle, inside the spokes, removes the
objection of side-shadows:

http://i12.tinypic.com/4tz3tp0.jpg

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

[autopi]

> But another disadvantage is that the leading edge of the rim and tire
> cast a shadow toward the opposite side of the road. There are times
> that shadow will be exactly where you want light.
>
> For this reason, I prefer my lights to be mounted to the fork crown or
> a front rack. If my fenders were metal instead of lightweight
> plastic, the top of the front fender would be another good choice.
>

that's a good point. i'd thought about the fender thing, but i'm in
the same boat. and i don't want to buy a front rack just so i can
mount some lights. maybe some way to attach a small (fenix-size) light
to the headtube?

[Tom Schmitz]

<frkrygow@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1192594428.631303.186350@z24g2000prh.googlegr oups.com...
> On Oct 15, 8:13 pm, autopi <iamnetf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
<snippage>
> But another disadvantage is that the leading edge of the rim and tire
> cast a shadow toward the opposite side of the road. There are times
> that shadow will be exactly where you want light.
>
> For this reason, I prefer my lights to be mounted to the fork crown or
> a front rack. If my fenders were metal instead of lightweight
> plastic, the top of the front fender would be another good choice.
>
<snippage>
I shamelessly stole this design from Tim McNamara and I've been using it for
a couple of years now. Werks gud.

These are links to flickr and photobucket and are safe for family viewing...

The first two are just after the thing was built, the second two after this
morning's ride in the rain.

http://tinyurl.com/ytlzxc
http://tinyurl.com/2v84me
http://tinyurl.com/2e56xm
http://tinyurl.com/2shaqu

Cheers,
Tom

[SMS]

autopi wrote:
>> But another disadvantage is that the leading edge of the rim and tire
>> cast a shadow toward the opposite side of the road. There are times
>> that shadow will be exactly where you want light.
>>
>> For this reason, I prefer my lights to be mounted to the fork crown or
>> a front rack. If my fenders were metal instead of lightweight
>> plastic, the top of the front fender would be another good choice.
>>
>
> that's a good point. i'd thought about the fender thing, but i'm in
> the same boat. and i don't want to buy a front rack just so i can
> mount some lights. maybe some way to attach a small (fenix-size) light
> to the headtube?
>

On bicycles with threaded headsets you can often make use of a steel
reflector bracket. Alternatively, you can use the brake bolt. This is
fine for lightweight lights, but probably not okay for the 2C flashlight
in the subject line.

Enter "headlight mounting bicycle headset" in Google, and then click on
"I'm Feeling Lucky" and you'll get to a page (one of my pages) that
shows several options. For the Fenix L2DCE you could fabricate a
suitable mount out of aluminum flat bar that you can buy at Home Depot.

I've used the Fenix L2DCE with a Twofish block, and it works well on the
handlebars, which is the most secure place to mount a light.

[SMS]

Tom Schmitz wrote:

> http://tinyurl.com/ytlzxc
> http://tinyurl.com/2v84me
> http://tinyurl.com/2e56xm
> http://tinyurl.com/2shaqu

Very cool. I have one of those Sanyo dynamos in the garage, maybe I'll
try something like that on the touring bike which has a non-low-rider
front rack.

Do you manually turn on the second lamp when you're going a certain
speed, or what?

[_]

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:48:20 -0700, Tom Schmitz wrote:

> <frkrygow@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1192594428.631303.186350@z24g2000prh.googlegr oups.com...
>> On Oct 15, 8:13 pm, autopi <iamnetf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> <snippage>
>> But another disadvantage is that the leading edge of the rim and tire
>> cast a shadow toward the opposite side of the road. There are times
>> that shadow will be exactly where you want light.
>>
>> For this reason, I prefer my lights to be mounted to the fork crown or
>> a front rack. If my fenders were metal instead of lightweight
>> plastic, the top of the front fender would be another good choice.
>>
> <snippage>
> I shamelessly stole this design from Tim McNamara and I've been using it for
> a couple of years now. Werks gud.
>
> These are links to flickr and photobucket and are safe for family viewing...
>
> The first two are just after the thing was built, the second two after this
> morning's ride in the rain.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ytlzxc
> http://tinyurl.com/2v84me
> http://tinyurl.com/2e56xm
> http://tinyurl.com/2shaqu
>

Tom, that unit has what I would call a design flaw, and there's a fix for
it if you have some skills.

The cam that moves the roller in and out of engagement is fixed to the
lever by pressing it onto a hex section of the lever shaft. With time,
this wears and the cam becomes un-fixed.

The fix for this unfixing is to silver-solder the cam to the shaft in situ.
Part of the casting must be cut away to allow your flame access to the
shaft - how much depends on how large the flame is; the cut section on mine
is about 1/4" wide and a bit longer into the casting. I used a jeweler's
saw to do the cutting, a pencil-stle butane unit for heat, and some
silver-solder of the lowest melting point (silver-solder typically comes in
easy, medium, and hard, which refer to melting points).

[still me]

On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 21:41:46 -0500, Tom Sherman
<sunsetss0003@yahoo.com> wrote:

>> In this regard, handlebar mounts are better than head mounts; but fork
>> crown mounts, front fender mounts, or front rack mounts seem to work
>> best of all...
>
>When I mount a light on the fork, it mostly lights up the back of my
>lower legs and feet, which is not very useful.

Maybe you should point it in the other direction :-)

[Tom]

SMS wrote:
> Tom Schmitz wrote:
>
>> http://tinyurl.com/ytlzxc
>> http://tinyurl.com/2v84me
>> http://tinyurl.com/2e56xm
>> http://tinyurl.com/2shaqu
>
> Very cool. I have one of those Sanyo dynamos in the garage, maybe I'll
> try something like that on the touring bike which has a non-low-rider
> front rack.
>
> Do you manually turn on the second lamp when you're going a certain
> speed, or what?

Steven -

They are wired in series, with a switch wired such that I can run either
one or both. That switch is mounted in my stem cap. I use both lamps
infrequently, and at speeds over about 18 mph.

Both lamps are BiSys and I find one perfectly adequate for my commute,
which ranges from street lamp illumination to pitch-dark. I have a pair
of Lumotec lamps and am considering replacing one of the BiSy lamps with
a Lumotec to see if I like the pattern better. I've been so pleased with
the BiSy lamps for the past two years that I have not gotten a round
tuit with respect to the swap.

Cheers,

Tom

[Tom]

_ wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:48:20 -0700, Tom Schmitz wrote:
>
>> <frkrygow@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1192594428.631303.186350@z24g2000prh.googlegr oups.com...
>>> On Oct 15, 8:13 pm, autopi <iamnetf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> <snippage>
>>> But another disadvantage is that the leading edge of the rim and tire
>>> cast a shadow toward the opposite side of the road. There are times
>>> that shadow will be exactly where you want light.
>>>
>>> For this reason, I prefer my lights to be mounted to the fork crown or
>>> a front rack. If my fenders were metal instead of lightweight
>>> plastic, the top of the front fender would be another good choice.
>>>
>> <snippage>
>> I shamelessly stole this design from Tim McNamara and I've been using it for
>> a couple of years now. Werks gud.
>>
>> These are links to flickr and photobucket and are safe for family viewing...
>>
>> The first two are just after the thing was built, the second two after this
>> morning's ride in the rain.
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/ytlzxc
>> http://tinyurl.com/2v84me
>> http://tinyurl.com/2e56xm
>> http://tinyurl.com/2shaqu
>>
>
> Tom, that unit has what I would call a design flaw, and there's a fix for
> it if you have some skills.
>
> The cam that moves the roller in and out of engagement is fixed to the
> lever by pressing it onto a hex section of the lever shaft. With time,
> this wears and the cam becomes un-fixed.
>
> The fix for this unfixing is to silver-solder the cam to the shaft in situ.
> Part of the casting must be cut away to allow your flame access to the
> shaft - how much depends on how large the flame is; the cut section on mine
> is about 1/4" wide and a bit longer into the casting. I used a jeweler's
> saw to do the cutting, a pencil-stle butane unit for heat, and some
> silver-solder of the lowest melting point (silver-solder typically comes in
> easy, medium, and hard, which refer to melting points).

Thanks for the tip. I've been using the Sanyo generator for over 20
years now and have not run into that problem. I tear the generator down
a couple of times per season and refresh the lube in the bushings, clean
the crap out, and put a bit of grease on all bearing and sliding points,
so that's probably why mine have not failed in that manner.

Being mounted up on the front tire instead of behind the BB helps, too.

Cheers,

Tom

[Tom Sherman]

still me aka Wheeled Bob wrote:
> On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 21:41:46 -0500, Tom Sherman
> <sunsetss0003@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>> In this regard, handlebar mounts are better than head mounts; but fork
>>> crown mounts, front fender mounts, or front rack mounts seem to work
>>> best of all...
>> When I mount a light on the fork, it mostly lights up the back of my
>> lower legs and feet, which is not very useful.
>
> Maybe you should point it in the other direction :-)

Why would I want a headlight mounted backwards?

The ideal place for a headlight is right in front of the bottom bracket.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
Beer - It's not just for breakfast anymore!

[victor.kan@gmail.com]

On Oct 19, 3:16 pm, Matt O'Toole <mattoto...@letterboxes.org> wrote:
> Thanks for the info. I'm sure some people will find this useful, but for
> me, a C cell flashlight is way too big and clunky for my bike.

I know it's not for everyone, but the Lowe's flashlight has a lamp
head that is easily removed and appears to be pretty easily
modifiable. One of these days I might put two of them together with a
project box from Radio Shack or something to use a more compact
battery configuration and to make it easier to bike-mount. One of
these days...

[SMS]

Matt O'Toole wrote:

> Thanks for the info. I'm sure some people will find this useful, but for
> me, a C cell flashlight is way too big and clunky for my bike.

I thought it'd be too big, but mounted under the handlebars it's not
bad. Using AA NiMH cells inside C adapters also lowers the weight versus
using 2 C cells, but you can use high-capacity NiMH C cells for longer
run time. The Fenix L2DCE is only one inch shorter than the Task Force.
The much larger diameter reflector increases the efficiency. The Task
Force is rated at 150 lumens, versus 80 lumens for the Task Force.

> Some AA lights like the Fenix could make great bike lights, for a lot less
> money than ones marketed as bike lights.

This is true. Since they are mass-marketed as flashlights rather than as
a specialty bicycle light, they can't gouge as much.

> Instead of the Twofish block, use a glob of muffler and gas tank repair
> putty to make a mount. Wax the handlebar and the light, stick the putty
> on the handlebar, and mount the light on the putty with a rubber band.
> Adjust the aim and let it set.

I made some mounts using steel conduit clamps, heat shrink tubing, lock
nuts and wing nuts. It's a very simple and secure mount, no funky
plastic or rubber bands, and they don't look Rube Goldberg. It'd work
for the Fenix AA flashlight by using a smaller conduit clamp for the
flashlight. I posted the details on my web site (Google "Bicycle
Flashlight" and it's the first hit).

> I have yet to find a replacement for my old Cateye Micro halogen without
> spending at least $100. Some of these new LED flashlights may do it
> though.
>
> Almost all bike lights are crappy and/or overpriced.

Almost all, but there are some decent ones. The ones with external
batteries often suffer from junky connectors and switches. That's why
the self-contained flashlights are good, they eliminate at least one
point of failure.

Decades ago, a "flashlight on the handlebars" was a popular type of
bicycle light, and the spring steel flashlight holder made by Wald would
hold a cheap 2 D cell flashlight that was only marginally effective at
lighting the road. Ironically, with the advent of high-power LED
flashlights, a "flashlight on the handlebars" is now an excellent and
relatively inexpensive bicycle light.

[still me]

On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 17:14:06 -0500, Tom Sherman
<sunsetss0003@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Why would I want a headlight mounted backwards?
>
>The ideal place for a headlight is right in front of the bottom bracket.

I can see putting light down low, as that's the best way to rig a car
too. But, there's a difference- the car has nothing in front of the
lights. Doesn't the front wheel continually get in the way of the
light?

[Kerry Montgomery]

"still me" <wheeledBob@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nimih3pav5h0q43hnjc7k4ikh9usi7ialu@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 17:14:06 -0500, Tom Sherman
> <sunsetss0003@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>Why would I want a headlight mounted backwards?
>>
>>The ideal place for a headlight is right in front of the bottom bracket.
>
> I can see putting light down low, as that's the best way to rig a car
> too. But, there's a difference- the car has nothing in front of the
> lights. Doesn't the front wheel continually get in the way of the
> light?

stillme,
I think that some posters to this thread are talking about upright bicycles,
and others are talking about recumbent bicycles.
Kerry

[Tom Sherman]

Kerry Montgomery wrote:
> "still me" <wheeledBob@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:nimih3pav5h0q43hnjc7k4ikh9usi7ialu@4ax.com...
>> On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 17:14:06 -0500, Tom Sherman
>> <sunsetss0003@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Why would I want a headlight mounted backwards?
>>>
>>> The ideal place for a headlight is right in front of the bottom bracket.
>> I can see putting light down low, as that's the best way to rig a car
>> too. But, there's a difference- the car has nothing in front of the
>> lights. Doesn't the front wheel continually get in the way of the
>> light?
>
> stillme,
> I think that some posters to this thread are talking about upright bicycles,
> and others are talking about recumbent bicycles.

Hot Dog! We have a Weiner!

Yes, the BB is in front of the front wheel, and putting the light in
front of the BB keeps it from lighting up my feet as I pedal.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
Beer - It's not just for breakfast anymore!

[still me]

On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 06:44:26 -0500, Tom Sherman
<sunsetss0003@yahoo.com> wrote:

>> stillme,
>> I think that some posters to this thread are talking about upright bicycles,
>> and others are talking about recumbent bicycles.
>
>Hot Dog! We have a Weiner!
>
>Yes, the BB is in front of the front wheel, and putting the light in
>front of the BB keeps it from lighting up my feet as I pedal.

Oh, I see.

Aren't recumby riders were forbidden by charter to post here?

:-)

[Tom Sherman]

still me wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 06:44:26 -0500, Tom Sherman
> <sunsetss0003@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>> stillme,
>>> I think that some posters to this thread are talking about upright bicycles,
>>> and others are talking about recumbent bicycles.
>> Hot Dog! We have a Weiner!
>>
>> Yes, the BB is in front of the front wheel, and putting the light in
>> front of the BB keeps it from lighting up my feet as I pedal.
>
> Oh, I see.
>
> Aren't recumby riders were forbidden by charter to post here?
>
> :-)

No, but I am sure that was an oversight. ;)

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
Beer - It's not just for breakfast anymore!

[Mike Kruger]

still me wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 06:44:26 -0500, Tom Sherman
> <sunsetss0003@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>> stillme,
>>> I think that some posters to this thread are talking about upright
>>> bicycles, and others are talking about recumbent bicycles.
>>
>> Hot Dog! We have a Weiner!
>>
>> Yes, the BB is in front of the front wheel, and putting the light in
>> front of the BB keeps it from lighting up my feet as I pedal.
>
> Oh, I see.
>
> Aren't recumby riders were forbidden by charter to post here?
>
> :-)

Don't get Sherman mad. He types too fast.

[A Muzi]

>>> stillme,
>>> I think that some posters to this thread are talking about upright bicycles,
>>> and others are talking about recumbent bicycles.

> Tom Sherman <sunsetss0003@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Hot Dog! We have a Weiner!
>> Yes, the BB is in front of the front wheel, and putting the light in
>> front of the BB keeps it from lighting up my feet as I pedal.

still me wrote:
> Oh, I see.
> Aren't recumby riders were forbidden by charter to post here?

Run & tell Mr Charter!
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[Tom Keats]

In article <13hl98049p4v0e1@corp.supernews.com>,
Tom <ctschmitz@earthlink.net> writes:

> Thanks for the tip. I've been using the Sanyo generator for over 20
> years now and have not run into that problem. I tear the generator down
> a couple of times per season and refresh the lube in the bushings, clean
> the crap out, and put a bit of grease on all bearing and sliding points,
> so that's probably why mine have not failed in that manner.

Would that I could similarly maintain my heap of old
(self contained) Union generators.

I've gotta invest in a small metric socket set so I
can at least swap-out the rollers/drivewheels. My
metric Park spanners won't fit in there. It looks
like an 8mm nut holding the thing on. With my luck,
the socket wouldn't fit in there either.

> Cheers,
>
> Tom

uhhh ...
good day, eh,
Tom

--
Nothing is safe from me.
I'm really at:
tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca

[Tom]

Tom Keats wrote:
> In article <13hl98049p4v0e1@corp.supernews.com>,
> Tom <ctschmitz@earthlink.net> writes:
>
>> Thanks for the tip. I've been using the Sanyo generator for over 20
>> years now and have not run into that problem. I tear the generator down
>> a couple of times per season and refresh the lube in the bushings, clean
>> the crap out, and put a bit of grease on all bearing and sliding points,
>> so that's probably why mine have not failed in that manner.
>
> Would that I could similarly maintain my heap of old
> (self contained) Union generators.
>
> I've gotta invest in a small metric socket set so I
> can at least swap-out the rollers/drivewheels. My
> metric Park spanners won't fit in there. It looks
> like an 8mm nut holding the thing on. With my luck,
> the socket wouldn't fit in there either.
>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Tom
>
> uhhh ...
> good day, eh,
> Tom
>

Dewd!!

You Canadanians, like, totally crack me up. Gnome sane?

Cheers from SoCal,

Tom

P.S. - If it is like my Unions, it is an 8mm nut, and then the drive
wheel unscrew from the shaft. The end float needs to be set correctly by
threading the drive wheel back on until the right end float is achieved,
then fixing it in place with the 8mm nut...

[Tom Keats]

In article <13hnemi1g5ulc36@corp.supernews.com>,
Tom <ctschmitz@earthlink.net> writes:
> Tom Keats wrote:
>> In article <13hl98049p4v0e1@corp.supernews.com>,
>> Tom <ctschmitz@earthlink.net> writes:
>>
>>> Thanks for the tip. I've been using the Sanyo generator for over 20
>>> years now and have not run into that problem. I tear the generator down
>>> a couple of times per season and refresh the lube in the bushings, clean
>>> the crap out, and put a bit of grease on all bearing and sliding points,
>>> so that's probably why mine have not failed in that manner.
>>
>> Would that I could similarly maintain my heap of old
>> (self contained) Union generators.
>>
>> I've gotta invest in a small metric socket set so I
>> can at least swap-out the rollers/drivewheels. My
>> metric Park spanners won't fit in there. It looks
>> like an 8mm nut holding the thing on. With my luck,
>> the socket wouldn't fit in there either.
>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Tom
>>
>> uhhh ...
>> good day, eh,
>> Tom
>>
>
> Dewd!!
>
> You Canadanians, like, totally crack me up. Gnome sane?
^^^^^^^^^^

Trailer Park Boys fan? Me, too.

"I'm gonna let the liquor do my thinking."
-- Jim Lahey

"That's what Christmas is all about - getting
stoned & drunk with your friends & family."
-- Ricky


"Hey, Julian, y'look so sexy in that black T-shirt,
Dirty Dancing, Patrick Swaayzzzeeeee!"
-- Conky's last words before
Julian shot his head off

> Cheers from SoCal,

I'm not a /real/ Canadian.
To be a /real/ Canadian you've gotta come from some
place over there <me, pointing towards/past the Western
Cordilleras>

On this side of the Rockies I'm just a canadian.
In fact, I'm just a Vancouver East Ender. A lot
of Canadians wind up here, though. Our purpose
is to thaw them out when they arrive here. And
if they're likeable enough, we give 'em a little
pamphlet about how to stay dry.

> Tom
>
> P.S. - If it is like my Unions, it is an 8mm nut, and then the drive
> wheel unscrew from the shaft. The end float needs to be set correctly by
> threading the drive wheel back on until the right end float is achieved,
> then fixing it in place with the 8mm nut...

Yeah, that's the trick. Too tight, and she don't turn.
There must be some special tool that gets under or
around the drivewheel and keeps the pinion from turning
while the top nut is being cinched.


cheers,
Tom

--
Nothing is safe from me.
I'm really at:
tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca

[Tom]

Tom Keats wrote:
> In article <13hnemi1g5ulc36@corp.supernews.com>,
> Tom <ctschmitz@earthlink.net> writes:
>> Tom Keats wrote:
>>> In article <13hl98049p4v0e1@corp.supernews.com>,
>>> Tom <ctschmitz@earthlink.net> writes:
>>>
>>>> Thanks for the tip. I've been using the Sanyo generator for over 20
>>>> years now and have not run into that problem. I tear the generator down
>>>> a couple of times per season and refresh the lube in the bushings, clean
>>>> the crap out, and put a bit of grease on all bearing and sliding points,
>>>> so that's probably why mine have not failed in that manner.
>>> Would that I could similarly maintain my heap of old
>>> (self contained) Union generators.
>>>
>>> I've gotta invest in a small metric socket set so I
>>> can at least swap-out the rollers/drivewheels. My
>>> metric Park spanners won't fit in there. It looks
>>> like an 8mm nut holding the thing on. With my luck,
>>> the socket wouldn't fit in there either.
>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>> Tom
>>> uhhh ...
>>> good day, eh,
>>> Tom
>>>
>> Dewd!!
>>
>> You Canadanians, like, totally crack me up. Gnome sane?
> ^^^^^^^^^^
>
> Trailer Park Boys fan? Me, too.
>
> "I'm gonna let the liquor do my thinking."
> -- Jim Lahey
>
> "That's what Christmas is all about - getting
> stoned & drunk with your friends & family."
> -- Ricky
>
>
> "Hey, Julian, y'look so sexy in that black T-shirt,
> Dirty Dancing, Patrick Swaayzzzeeeee!"
> -- Conky's last words before
> Julian shot his head off
>
>> Cheers from SoCal,
>
> I'm not a /real/ Canadian.
> To be a /real/ Canadian you've gotta come from some
> place over there <me, pointing towards/past the Western
> Cordilleras>
>
> On this side of the Rockies I'm just a canadian.
> In fact, I'm just a Vancouver East Ender. A lot
> of Canadians wind up here, though. Our purpose
> is to thaw them out when they arrive here. And
> if they're likeable enough, we give 'em a little
> pamphlet about how to stay dry.
>
>> Tom
>>
>> P.S. - If it is like my Unions, it is an 8mm nut, and then the drive
>> wheel unscrew from the shaft. The end float needs to be set correctly by
>> threading the drive wheel back on until the right end float is achieved,
>> then fixing it in place with the 8mm nut...
>
> Yeah, that's the trick. Too tight, and she don't turn.
> There must be some special tool that gets under or
> around the drivewheel and keeps the pinion from turning
> while the top nut is being cinched.
>
>
> cheers,
> Tom
>
Tom -

I have a special slip-joint plier with Teflon jaws that is made for
grasping Canon and Amphenol connectors and it works well for gripping
things that you don't want to mess up.

I find, though that a strip of leather about half an inch wide and three
inches long works splendidly to the same purpose in regular and
slip-joint pliers.

I spent a portion of my youth in central Maine and remember Canadanians
as a hardly lot. Of course, the ones I ran into were French, so... well,
they were French. I remain a francophobe.

Cheers,

Tom

[Tom]

Tom Keats wrote:
<snippage>
>>>
>> Dewd!!
>>
>> You Canadanians, like, totally crack me up. Gnome sane?
> ^^^^^^^^^^
>
> Trailer Park Boys fan? Me, too.
>
> "I'm gonna let the liquor do my thinking."
> -- Jim Lahey
<snippage>

Tom -

Nope, never heard of them. I did Google the reference though. It's just
a simultaneous invention thing.

You've whet my appetite for Trailer Park Boys, though. Off to youtube...

Cheers,

Tom

[SMS]

russellseaton1@yahoo.com wrote:

> I'd recommend the Fenix L2DCE light above the Lowes Task Force because
> of the flickering of the lowes light. I would not recommend the Lowes
> light at all for bicycling. Might be a good flashlight but not a good
> bicycle light. Run time is also 30 minutes or so less than the Fenix
> using Duracell AA or Duracell C batteries.

The batteries are a bit loose inside the flashlight, which is why you
were probably getting the flickering. Roll half a sheet of paper around
the batteries and this stops the rattling.

I see the problem with the TwoFish block even with smaller flashlights,
I'm often straightening out the block as it tends to move when you go
over bumps, and I'm sure it's much more of a problem with the larger
flashlight. The other issue with the TwoFish block is that on angled
handlebars, such as on mountain and hybrid bicycles, it's not pointing
straight ahead. The clamps that I made are better than a TwoFish block,
"http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/homemadebracket.jpg".

[Crescentius Vespasianus]

> I finally used my Lowes Task Force 3W CREE LED light on a night ride
> over the weekend. It really did not work well. The TwoFish
> CyclopBlock holder tended to turn when hitting big bumps.
> Particularly rumble strips. Some friction tape around the handlebar
> where the TwoFish block sits would help. And using the AA holders in
> place of the C cells would lighten the flashlight and help keep it
> from tipping up or down. The flashlight rattles when riding.
> Batteries or light head, I don't know. But it rattles. The LED light
> also flickers at times when on slightly rough roads. Flickers on and
> off at a lower intensity for awhile. It does eventually go back to
> being a decent solid light but it does flicker for awhile every now
> and then. Beam is OK for riding. The 2 Duracell C batteries that
> came with the light only lasted about 2 hours. Maybe a bit less.
> Temps were about 50 degrees fahrenheit. I mounted my flashlight above
> the bars beside the stem with the TwoFish block and it is not in the
> way too much.
>
> I'd recommend the Fenix L2DCE light above the Lowes Task Force because
> of the flickering of the lowes light. I would not recommend the Lowes
> light at all for bicycling. Might be a good flashlight but not a good
> bicycle light. Run time is also 30 minutes or so less than the Fenix
> using Duracell AA or Duracell C batteries.
-----------
How does the throw of the task force
compare to the fenix? Can you get a
spot way out there with the task force?
I'm a road rider, so I'm looking for
an LED with some decent throw.

[travis.harry@gmail.com]

On Oct 22, 11:00 am, "russellseat...@yahoo.com"
<russellseat...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Oct 15, 4:59 pm, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > The Task Force 3 Watt LED Flashlight from Lowe's, Model FT-NS-2C-3W Item
> > # 225285, SKU 6937481300067, has been discussed a lot on the Candlepower
> > forums regarding its use as a bicycle light but I don't think it's been
> > mentioned here.
>
> > This is the best priced 3W Cree LED flashlight on the market, selling
> > for $30 at the Lowe's chain of hardware stores. Be very careful as there
> > are two flashlights from Lowe's with the same model, item, and SKU
> > number. You do not want the model that says "Luxeon" on the packaging,
> > and that lacks the "60X Brighter" statement on the packaging. Many
> > Lowe's stores have only the Luxeon version, some Lowe's stores have
> > both, and some have only the Cree version.
>
> > This beam is so bright that there is sufficient spill for peripheral
> > illumination off to the sides and up far enough to illuminate street signs.
>
> > While it is definitely a spot beam as opposed to a flood beam, you don't
> > really have the problem of the cheaper battery powered lights, and of
> > most dynamo lights, of insufficient peripheral illumination as the
> > amount of spill solves this problem. The spill of a spot beam is
> > actually a positive for bicycle lights that use a spot beam because
> > without sufficient spill you are not able to sufficiently illuminate off
> > to the sides or up to road signs.
>
> > Compared to the cost of dedicated 3W Cree bicycle lights, this
> > flashlight is a real bargain. Use it with a TwoFish mounting block (get
> > the reinforced one which is $10).
>
> > You can see it in the package at
> > "http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0715.JPG".
>
> I finally used my Lowes Task Force 3W CREE LED light on a night ride
> over the weekend. It really did not work well. The TwoFish
> CyclopBlock holder tended to turn when hitting big bumps.
> Particularly rumble strips. Some friction tape around the handlebar
> where the TwoFish block sits would help. And using the AA holders in
> place of the C cells would lighten the flashlight and help keep it
> from tipping up or down. The flashlight rattles when riding.
> Batteries or light head, I don't know. But it rattles. The LED light
> also flickers at times when on slightly rough roads. Flickers on and
> off at a lower intensity for awhile. It does eventually go back to
> being a decent solid light but it does flicker for awhile every now
> and then. Beam is OK for riding. The 2 Duracell C batteries that
> came with the light only lasted about 2 hours. Maybe a bit less.
> Temps were about 50 degrees fahrenheit. I mounted my flashlight above
> the bars beside the stem with the TwoFish block and it is not in the
> way too much.
>
> I'd recommend the Fenix L2DCE light above the Lowes Task Force because
> of the flickering of the lowes light. I would not recommend the Lowes
> light at all for bicycling. Might be a good flashlight but not a good
> bicycle light. Run time is also 30 minutes or so less than the Fenix
> using Duracell AA or Duracell C batteries.

If the drain is so high, then Alkalines are not the batteries to use.
Try NimH rechargeables.

[russellseaton1@yahoo.com]

On Oct 25, 10:45 am, Crescentius Vespasianus <jazzyb...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> > I finally used my Lowes Task Force 3W CREE LED light on a night ride
> > over the weekend. It really did not work well. The TwoFish
> > CyclopBlock holder tended to turn when hitting big bumps.
> > Particularly rumble strips. Some friction tape around the handlebar
> > where the TwoFish block sits would help. And using the AA holders in
> > place of the C cells would lighten the flashlight and help keep it
> > from tipping up or down. The flashlight rattles when riding.
> > Batteries or light head, I don't know. But it rattles. The LED light
> > also flickers at times when on slightly rough roads. Flickers on and
> > off at a lower intensity for awhile. It does eventually go back to
> > being a decent solid light but it does flicker for awhile every now
> > and then. Beam is OK for riding. The 2 Duracell C batteries that
> > came with the light only lasted about 2 hours. Maybe a bit less.
> > Temps were about 50 degrees fahrenheit. I mounted my flashlight above
> > the bars beside the stem with the TwoFish block and it is not in the
> > way too much.
>
> > I'd recommend the Fenix L2DCE light above the Lowes Task Force because
> > of the flickering of the lowes light. I would not recommend the Lowes
> > light at all for bicycling. Might be a good flashlight but not a good
> > bicycle light. Run time is also 30 minutes or so less than the Fenix
> > using Duracell AA or Duracell C batteries.
>
> -----------
> How does the throw of the task force
> compare to the fenix? Can you get a
> spot way out there with the task force?
> I'm a road rider, so I'm looking for
> an LED with some decent throw.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

The Lowes Task Force light throws its beam quite a ways. Narrow
beam. When its working, its OK. Fenix is a very wide beam that
illuminates everything in front of you, and to the side. Great for a
flashlight, but not a bike light. Lowes Task Force maybe isn't
optimal for a flashlight since its so narrow. If you were
illuminating anything up close using it as a flashlight, it would be
almost too bright. Last night the batteries on the Fenix L2DCE did
not seem to last very long. 45 minutes. Pretty sure they were new
batteries. Temps were only in the 40s. So I'm having second thoughts
about recommending any flashlight as a bike light.

[SMS]

russellseaton1@yahoo.com wrote:

> The Lowes Task Force light throws its beam quite a ways. Narrow
> beam. When its working, its OK. Fenix is a very wide beam that
> illuminates everything in front of you, and to the side. Great for a
> flashlight, but not a bike light. Lowes Task Force maybe isn't
> optimal for a flashlight since its so narrow. If you were
> illuminating anything up close using it as a flashlight, it would be
> almost too bright. Last night the batteries on the Fenix L2DCE did
> not seem to last very long. 45 minutes. Pretty sure they were new
> batteries. Temps were only in the 40s. So I'm having second thoughts
> about recommending any flashlight as a bike light.

The Fenix L2DCE has two reflector options. The one I have (smooth)
provides an ideal beam, with a spot far ahead of the bicycle, but flood
illumination at a lower intensity as well.