Which cassteet to use..... a 34T or 32T on a MTB.?

[Ben]

Hi there,

I'm just in the process of replacing my chain, front chainrings and
rear cassette on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite '06. It's a
full suspension machine and I use it mostly for recreational riding
and the odd cross country race.

Currently the bike has a 34T cassette, but am wondering what happens
if I change it to 32T.?

Obviously the granny gear will not be as low, but my question is which
is recommended for what type of riding? Why?

Thanks!

Ben
-Auckland, New Zealand-

[Bill Sornson]

Ben wrote:
> Hi there,
>
> I'm just in the process of replacing my chain, front chainrings and
> rear cassette on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite '06. It's a
> full suspension machine and I use it mostly for recreational riding
> and the odd cross country race.
>
> Currently the bike has a 34T cassette, but am wondering what happens
> if I change it to 32T.?
>
> Obviously the granny gear will not be as low, but my question is which
> is recommended for what type of riding? Why?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ben
> -Auckland, New Zealand-

Not a huge difference, really. If you climb really steep hills, then a 34
is useful. If not, then even a 28 big cog should be fine (and the shifting
on a "closer range" cassette might even be a tad more crisp). Going from a
34 to a 32 is no big deal at all.

Bill S.

[Lou Holtman]

Ben wrote:
> Hi there,
>
> I'm just in the process of replacing my chain, front chainrings and
> rear cassette on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite '06. It's a
> full suspension machine and I use it mostly for recreational riding
> and the odd cross country race.
>
> Currently the bike has a 34T cassette, but am wondering what happens
> if I change it to 32T.?
>
> Obviously the granny gear will not be as low, but my question is which
> is recommended for what type of riding? Why?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ben
> -Auckland, New Zealand-


It doesn't matter. The terrain must be very specific (long steep climb
ie) to notice the difference. I have two MTB's, a hardtail with a 32
cluster, the FS with a 34. If I didn't I couldn't tell which is on what
bike.

Lou

[Matt O'Toole]

On Tue, 05 Feb 2008 22:16:44 -0800, Ben wrote:

> I'm just in the process of replacing my chain, front chainrings and rear
> cassette on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite '06. It's a full
> suspension machine and I use it mostly for recreational riding and the odd
> cross country race.
>
> Currently the bike has a 34T cassette, but am wondering what happens if I
> change it to 32T.?
>
> Obviously the granny gear will not be as low, but my question is which is
> recommended for what type of riding? Why?

Whatever feels best to you. If you feel like you could comfortably use a
taller low gear, then go for it. One benefit would be smaller gaps
between your lowest gears.

Personally I'm happy with a 22/28, but if I were riding dual suspension
(like you are) I might go one lower, to a 22/32.

Matt O.

[landotter]

On Feb 6, 12:16 am, Ben <bened...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi there,
>
> I'm just in the process of replacing my chain, front chainrings and
> rear cassette on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite '06. It's a
> full suspension machine and I use it mostly for recreational riding
> and the odd cross country race.
>
> Currently the bike has a 34T cassette, but am wondering what happens
> if I change it to 32T.?

You'll get slightly crisper shifting to the low cog. If it's worn and
you're torn between 32 and 34, get the one that glints better or is
cheaper.

[Jasper Janssen]

On Tue, 5 Feb 2008 22:16:44 -0800 (PST), Ben <benedwar@gmail.com> wrote:
>Hi there,
>I'm just in the process of replacing my chain, front chainrings and
>rear cassette on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite '06. It's a
>full suspension machine and I use it mostly for recreational riding
>and the odd cross country race.
>
>Currently the bike has a 34T cassette, but am wondering what happens
>if I change it to 32T.?
>
>Obviously the granny gear will not be as low, but my question is which
>is recommended for what type of riding? Why?

Difference is minimal, really. I went from an 11-34 to an 11-23, and
*that* you notice, but 32/34 is very very small difference. You're more
likely to notice the differences in the first few cogs, where it moves
from one-teeth-at-a-time to 2-teeth-at-a-time, etc.

Jasper

[Ben]

On Feb 6, 7:16*pm, Ben <bened...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi there,
>
> I'm just in the process of replacing my chain, front chainrings and
> rear cassette on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite '06. *It's a
> full suspension machine and I use it mostly for recreational riding
> and the odd cross country race.
>
> Currently the bike has a 34T cassette, but am wondering what happens
> if I change it to 32T.?
>
> Obviously the granny gear will not be as low, but my question is which
> is recommended for what type of riding? Why?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ben
> -Auckland, New Zealand-

Hi guys,

Your thoughts have been helpdul. :-)

I see that for my use it will be little difference whether I choose
the 32T or 34T, but I have gone for the 32T simply because they were
on sale! ;-) Another thing I heard is that riders with single ring
fronts will play with the 32/34 difference a bit for help with getting
back up the hills again. But I see there would not be huge difference
in that either.

I'm replacing my drivetrain after suffering some chain suck and ****ty
shifts in a race last weekend so looking forward to some smooth
shifting racing with your help now.

Thanks again

Ben
-Auckland, NZ-

[Peter Cole]

Bill Sornson wrote:
> Ben wrote:
>> Hi there,
>>
>> I'm just in the process of replacing my chain, front chainrings and
>> rear cassette on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite '06. It's a
>> full suspension machine and I use it mostly for recreational riding
>> and the odd cross country race.
>>
>> Currently the bike has a 34T cassette, but am wondering what happens
>> if I change it to 32T.?
>>
>> Obviously the granny gear will not be as low, but my question is which
>> is recommended for what type of riding? Why?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Ben
>> -Auckland, New Zealand-
>
> Not a huge difference, really. If you climb really steep hills, then a 34
> is useful. If not, then even a 28 big cog should be fine (and the shifting
> on a "closer range" cassette might even be a tad more crisp). Going from a
> 34 to a 32 is no big deal at all.
>
> Bill S.
>
>

I'd agree with Bill, virtually no difference 34/32.

Around here, there's always a competition to see who can climb the
steepest stuff. Probably because of my height, I find I do best with the
largest sprocket (34) and a squatting position off the saddle onto the
top tube. Younger/shorter/more agile riders (like my 19 year old son)
seem to do better standing, typically with a much higher gear, they
don't need a 32/34.

Another reason I like wide range cassettes (11-34) is that for the
abruptly changing terrain I typically ride (glacial deposits) I can
avoid double (front & rear) shifts & maybe just stay in the middle ring.
In short, I don't think there's a one-size-fits-all recommendation.

[Matt O'Toole]

On Wed, 06 Feb 2008 09:38:02 -0500, Peter Cole wrote:

> Bill Sornson wrote:

> I'd agree with Bill, virtually no difference 34/32.

I'll go with that too -- not much difference.

> Around here, there's always a competition to see who can climb the
> steepest stuff. Probably because of my height, I find I do best with the
> largest sprocket (34) and a squatting position off the saddle onto the top
> tube. Younger/shorter/more agile riders (like my 19 year old son) seem to
> do better standing, typically with a much higher gear, they don't need a
> 32/34.

When Shimano developed the original XTR, they found through testing that
it made no sense to have a gear lower than 24/32. It was better to get
off and walk (or run) than gear down any more. But keep in mind
that this was for fit racers on lightweight hardtails, or more athletic
riders like your son.

> Another reason I like wide range cassettes (11-34) is that for the
> abruptly changing terrain I typically ride (glacial deposits) I can
> avoid double (front & rear) shifts & maybe just stay in the middle ring.
> In short, I don't think there's a one-size-fits-all recommendation.

I alternate between sitting and standing, toggling between my
small and mid chainrings. Big shifts front, little shifts rear, like
Shimano's engineers intended. Modern drivetrains that do smooth front
shifts under load are great.

Matt O.