What's a good drive train for Road Rides in Mtns?

[tcpasley]

I'd like to build a general purpose road bike, mainly for fitness/recreation/greenway rides in Raleigh, but also with enough low end to handle rides in the mountains - maybe even some non-competitive climbs. I know some of y'all have many centuries of riding experience in both of these locations, and your learned advice will be appreciated.

FWIW - It'll probably be built on an old steel frame, so I'll be limited to a 6- or 7-speed rear. I'm about 6', 210# if that makes any difference. I'm also a real cheapskate, so any suggestions involving exotic and/or expensive components, though appreciated, will not be very helpful.

Crankset - double or triple? Chainring recommendations? Crank length?
Rear Derailleur - 13t or 14t small cog? 28t, 32t, or 34t large cog? Any specific models recommended?

Thanks a million,

Reduce, Reuse, Rebicycle

tcpasley

[Pugslyyy]

I'm also a real cheapskate, so any suggestions involving exotic and/or expensive components, though appreciated, will not be very helpful.

Crankset - double or triple? Chainring recommendations? Crank length?
Rear Derailleur - 13t or 14t small cog? 28t, 32t, or 34t large cog? Any specific models recommended?

Watch craigslist and buy a cheap triple that fits.

[soarallover]

Jon and I rode the CNC Mountains to the Coast last year. We both used 34/50 compact cranks with 12/27 rear cogs. I have a 9 speed Jon 10.

We had no problems with the terrain that we encountered except that I would spin out on the down hill portions around 32 mph.

I just recently built up my 1972 steel frame using the not yet worn out parts from my newer road bike. A 39/52 crank and 12/27 rear. This setup works fine in this terrain although I would go with A triple crank for the mountains.

Performance and Bike Nashbar have been putting their Ultegra 6500 cranks on sale for $65.00 recently. Here is a coupon code for 10% off 50.00 or more purchase at Performance. It is long 0040600000001687. It works and has no expiration that I can see.

The Shimano 105 components are of similar quality to older Ultegra check out their cranks cogs and derailuers.

The newer style brakes are not compatible with all steel frames. I went with Bike Nashbar long reach brakes $24.00 per set of two. I still had to re-engineer the front brake with a metal file and bench grinder but everything is holding together and stopping the bike. I also replaced the brake levers with nashbar levers $12.00 and waited for free shipping that seems to be offered on a regular basis.

Like Jon says watch for deals on used equipment.

Hope this helps.

[TomG]

I have a Redline Conquest that is going on 5 years old. It is all aluminum frame and fork. 9 speed 105 parts except for the front derailuer which I replaced with an Ultegra because the 105 blew after only 6 months of riding. I just put a Richey compact crankset on it so now the gearing is 50/34 - 12/25/27. The wheel base is at least an inch longer than my road bike which makes it very stable. It's perfect for riding anything around here. I take it to Umstead a lot and ride Crabtree/Harris with it too; although I cannot keep up with anyone who rides a standard mt bike on those trails. :)

[RickF]

Crank length?We cannot help you with that one. Crank length depends on your leg length, flexibility, and position on eht bike. A good bike fitter can help you decide on what is best for you, but unless someone who knows how to fit a bike actually sees you on the bike, you are not going to get any information regarding crank length.

I would go with a triple in the mountains. Compact doubles are more difficult to shift and to keep the front derailleur working properly than a regular double or a triple. The chain just has to jump too many teeth at once when you go from the small to large chainring.

I also agree that the 2007 and newer 105 components are as good as the 2006 Ultegra and better than Ultegras older than 2005.