Durable Commuter Bike workup

[TBerk]

I've been running Trek bikes mostly (when bought new) and what ever
frame I find in empty lots (when used), currently I'm riding around on
a Mongoose frame.

It has been my main transportation day to day as I live near public
transpo for longer hauls, and other than recreational driving, I like
leaving the car at home.

This puts me in the saddle quite a bit so I end up tuning the thing in
these ways:

- Replace most nuts/bolts with Stainless Steel. Example would be the
bolts holding the bike rack to the frame. Rust has its place, but not
on my nuts. (har)

- Replace most nuts with Nylon capture nuts. (See the next entry.)

- Locktite on most threads. I hate rattling thing loose, esp when it
never falls off in the driveway, but way in the outback somewhere.

- Replace most Quick-Release with hex/allen/torx, etc fasteners. I
like to perhaps keep one wheel quick-release, but not both. It helps
when locking the bike up; Quick in/out means just locking through the
frame and the quick-release wheel. Longer times away mean putting the
two wheels together and locking through both. And then there is the
often 'throw it in the Car...' trips.

- Seat comfort. I find I like that gel material, but not enough to
have purchased an integrated seat. I use a slip on cover instead.
Having it look all one piece gets a little tricky but it can be done.

- On that note I dislike frame suspension as too heavy. Instead I have
simple shock in the seat tube. Front forks are currently solid but as
they got damaged I might swap to something with a disk brake mount.
Maybe shocks up front. (Naah, maybe not.)

- I generally find the twist grip shifter pretty useless over the long
haul. Never have I had a component fail on me more, across different
manufacturers. (Except for getting flat tires.)
I like a shifter I can put my thumb on and work while the other parts
of my hands hold on and steer. Frees up brain cells for navigation.
Twisty shifters? Off they go.

Now we start looking at rims and tires.

So far I've been just replacing knobby off-road tires with smoother
treads and gumwall sides with all black rubber. But I've been eyeing
(or have they been eyeing me?) these super-duper kevlar bonded,
kryptonite based, gold plated, moonbeam infused, green tea seeped
bicycle tires.

They all sound great on the back of the package, but I don't do
Centuries, I need to get out and back reliably. I'd like to save
weight but durability and rolling resistance are the two key factors.
Somewhere in there is a lack of flashiness; no red/yellow/neon green
tires need apply.

Also I have been riding around with a rear rim that has a bend to it.
<grrrr> I'd swap it out but I really like the super big 1st gear it
has so I just brake w/ the front end for the most part.

Do double wall rims make for a good choice when fighting potholes and
jumping curbs and so on?

My bike wheel philosophy:

- Strong/Light rim.
- Large Diameter Rim.
- Thorn 'proof' tubes.
- Smooth-ish Tires, all black.
- Inflation on the high side of the range.
- Back rim non-quick release.


OK, dems me thinks,
TBerk
Oh, and for a time I thought _I_ had invented the Hybrid. silly me.

[Andre Jute]

On Apr 22, 4:29 pm, TBerk <bayareab...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I've been running Trek bikes mostly (when bought new) and what ever
> frame I find in empty lots (when used), currently I'm riding around on
> a Mongoose frame.
>
> It has been my main transportation day to day as I live near public
> transpo for longer hauls, and other than recreational driving, I like
> leaving the car at home.
>
> This puts me in the saddle quite a bit so I end up tuning the thing in
> these ways:
>
> - Replace most nuts/bolts with Stainless Steel. Example would be the
> bolts holding the bike rack to the frame. Rust has its place, but not
> on my nuts. (har)
>
> - Replace most nuts with Nylon capture nuts. (See the next entry.)
>
> - Locktite on most threads. I hate rattling thing loose, esp when it
> never falls off in the driveway, but way in the outback somewhere.
>
> - Replace most Quick-Release with hex/allen/torx, etc fasteners. I
> like to perhaps keep one wheel quick-release, but not both. It helps
> when locking the bike up; Quick in/out means just locking through the
> frame and the quick-release wheel. Longer times away mean putting the
> two wheels together and locking through both. And then there is the
> often 'throw it in the Car...' trips.
>
> - Seat comfort. I find I like that gel material, but not enough to
> have purchased an integrated seat. I use a slip on cover instead.
> Having it look all one piece gets a little tricky but it can be done.
>
> - On that note I dislike frame suspension as too heavy. Instead I have
> simple shock in the seat tube. Front forks are currently solid but as
> they got damaged I might swap to something with a disk brake mount.
> Maybe shocks up front. (Naah, maybe not.)
>
> - I generally find the twist grip shifter pretty useless over the long
> haul. Never have I had a component fail on me more, across different
> manufacturers. (Except for getting flat tires.)
> I like a shifter I can put my thumb on and work while the other parts
> of my hands hold on and steer. Frees up brain cells for navigation.
> Twisty shifters? Off they go.
>
> Now we start looking at rims and tires.
>
> So far I've been just replacing knobby off-road tires with smoother
> treads and gumwall sides with all black rubber. But I've been eyeing
> (or have they been eyeing me?) these super-duper kevlar bonded,
> kryptonite based, gold plated, moonbeam infused, green tea seeped
> bicycle tires.
>
> They all sound great on the back of the package, but I don't do
> Centuries, I need to get out and back reliably. I'd like to save
> weight but durability and rolling resistance are the two key factors.
> Somewhere in there is a lack of flashiness; no red/yellow/neon green
> tires need apply.
>
> Also I have been riding around with a rear rim that has a bend to it.
> <grrrr> I'd swap it out but I really like the super big 1st gear it
> has so I just brake w/ the front end for the most part.
>
> Do double wall rims make for a good choice when fighting potholes and
> jumping curbs and so on?
>
> My bike wheel philosophy:
>
> - Strong/Light rim.
> - Large Diameter Rim.
> - Thorn 'proof' tubes.
> - Smooth-ish Tires, all black.
> - Inflation on the high side of the range.
> - Back rim non-quick release.
>
> OK, dems me thinks,
> TBerk
> Oh, and for a time I thought _I_ had invented the Hybrid. silly me.

I like almost smooth thornproof tyres, and have had good relations
with Schwalbe Marathon Plus and Bontrager Satellite Elite Hardcase,
over 2000 km each without any sign of wear or any flats. But I can't
agree with "all black". For a commuter tyre, the reflective ring is
too valuable to give up just for aesthetics. In any event, if
aesthetics are the ruling passion of our choice (this is still
rec.bike.TECH, is it?), those sidewalls are so tall, they need
something to break them up.

Andre Jute
An artist with a huge wu
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20%26%20CYCLING.html

[me@privacy.net]

TBerk <bayareaberk@yahoo.com> wrote:

>This puts me in the saddle quite a bit so I end up tuning the thing in
>these ways:

What size rims you like for commuting?

700c or 26"

[TBerk]

On Apr 22, 9:50 am, Andre Jute <fiult...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Apr 22, 4:29 pm, TBerk <bayareab...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I've been running Trek bikes mostly (when bought new) and what ever
> > frame I find in empty lots (when used), currently I'm riding around on
> > a Mongoose frame.
>
> > It has been my main transportation day to day as I live near public
> > transpo for longer hauls, and other than recreational driving, I like
> > leaving the car at home.
>
> > This puts me in the saddle quite a bit so I end up tuning the thing in
> > these ways:
>
> > - Replace most nuts/bolts with Stainless Steel. Example would be the
> > bolts holding the bike rack to the frame. Rust has its place, but not
> > on my nuts. (har)
>
> > - Replace most nuts with Nylon capture nuts. (See the next entry.)
>
> > - Locktite on most threads. I hate rattling thing loose, esp when it
> > never falls off in the driveway, but way in the outback somewhere.
>
> > - Replace most Quick-Release with hex/allen/torx, etc fasteners. I
> > like to perhaps keep one wheel quick-release, but not both. It helps
> > when locking the bike up; Quick in/out means just locking through the
> > frame and the quick-release wheel. Longer times away mean putting the
> > two wheels together and locking through both. And then there is the
> > often 'throw it in the Car...' trips.
>
> > - Seat comfort. I find I like that gel material, but not enough to
> > have purchased an integrated seat. I use a slip on cover instead.
> > Having it look all one piece gets a little tricky but it can be done.
>
> > - On that note I dislike frame suspension as too heavy. Instead I have
> > simple shock in the seat tube. Front forks are currently solid but as
> > they got damaged I might swap to something with a disk brake mount.
> > Maybe shocks up front. (Naah, maybe not.)
>
> > - I generally find the twist grip shifter pretty useless over the long
> > haul. Never have I had a component fail on me more, across different
> > manufacturers. (Except for getting flat tires.)
> > I like a shifter I can put my thumb on and work while the other parts
> > of my hands hold on and steer. Frees up brain cells for navigation.
> > Twisty shifters? Off they go.
>
> > Now we start looking at rims and tires.
>
> > So far I've been just replacing knobby off-road tires with smoother
> > treads and gumwall sides with all black rubber. But I've been eyeing
> > (or have they been eyeing me?) these super-duper kevlar bonded,
> > kryptonite based, gold plated, moonbeam infused, green tea seeped
> > bicycle tires.
>
> > They all sound great on the back of the package, but I don't do
> > Centuries, I need to get out and back reliably. I'd like to save
> > weight but durability and rolling resistance are the two key factors.
> > Somewhere in there is a lack of flashiness; no red/yellow/neon green
> > tires need apply.
>
> > Also I have been riding around with a rear rim that has a bend to it.
> > <grrrr> I'd swap it out but I really like the super big 1st gear it
> > has so I just brake w/ the front end for the most part.
>
> > Do double wall rims make for a good choice when fighting potholes and
> > jumping curbs and so on?
>
> > My bike wheel philosophy:
>
> > - Strong/Light rim.
> > - Large Diameter Rim.
> > - Thorn 'proof' tubes.
> > - Smooth-ish Tires, all black.
> > - Inflation on the high side of the range.
> > - Back rim non-quick release.
>
> > OK, dems me thinks,
> > TBerk
> > Oh, and for a time I thought _I_ had invented the Hybrid. silly me.
>
> I like almost smooth thornproof tyres, and have had good relations
> with Schwalbe Marathon Plus and Bontrager Satellite Elite Hardcase,
> over 2000 km each without any sign of wear or any flats. But I can't
> agree with "all black". For a commuter tyre, the reflective ring is
> too valuable to give up just for aesthetics. In any event, if
> aesthetics are the ruling passion of our choice (this is still
> rec.bike.TECH, is it?), those sidewalls are so tall, they need
> something to break them up.
>
> Andre Jute
> An artist with a huge wuhttp://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20%26%20CYCLING.html


Good point, re: aesthetics vs tech but I don't want anything on the
bike that is shiny ALL the time. Lights and whatnot can be turned off,
reflective sidewalls are not as easy to deal with.

(For any number of reasons this can be important, but that would
hijack my own thread...).

Thx for the brands, I'll go hold them in real life and see what I can
see.


TBerk

[TBerk]

A follow up to my own reply:

I went out anf looked closer at my current setup and discovered, after
careful ins
pection, that the used front tire I purchased w/ the new
700 rim is indeed a Bontrager.

700 x 35c 60-80 psi
Select Invert B Hardcase

This is the tire, with a thorn resistant tire inside (also used) that
did indeed perform as advertised and withstood about ten to 20 thorn
punctures.

It finally succumbed to a slow leak 48 hours later but I 'slimed' it
after pulling the pesky thorn points out.

So, when it comes time to replace the aging back tire I'll likely get
the same, if not a bit wider tire for the rear.


TBerk

[TBerk]

On Apr 22, 12:31 pm, m...@privacy.net wrote:
> TBerk <bayareab...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >This puts me in the saddle quite a bit so I end up tuning the thing in
> >these ways:
>
> What size rims you like for commuting?
>
> 700c or 26"

26" rims seem like Mountain Bike size, with most tire choices being
knobby and everything.

I find I prefer 27"/700mm size rims, road bike type even, with a
smooth wider tire than most ten speeds and w/ a high air pressure.


TBerk

[Ryan Cousineau]

In article
<f297a392-113b-427e-8d6a-c3cdc0b5e459@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>,
TBerk <bayareaberk@yahoo.com> wrote:

> On Apr 22, 12:31 pm, m...@privacy.net wrote:
> > TBerk <bayareab...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > >This puts me in the saddle quite a bit so I end up tuning the thing in
> > >these ways:
> >
> > What size rims you like for commuting?
> >
> > 700c or 26"
>
> 26" rims seem like Mountain Bike size, with most tire choices being
> knobby and everything.
>
> I find I prefer 27"/700mm size rims, road bike type even, with a
> smooth wider tire than most ten speeds and w/ a high air pressure.

26" slicks are pretty widely available. My local bike shop has cheap and
cheerful 26" slicks for $10 apiece, and many more exotic choices are
just a mail-order (or better bike shop) away.

If you're around 5'6" or less, one consideration is that a commuter bike
with fenders and 700c wheels will mean a lot of toe overlap. This may or
may not be a big deal, though I have kicked at least one fender to death
due to this. In other words, short people have a considerable incentive
to go with 26" wheels on their bikes, especially if they have fenders.

That said, my current commuter bike has 27" (ISO 630) wheels, because
the bike was cheap at a garage sale and is lovely to ride.

I'd also say there's commutes and there's commutes. If we're talking a
20 mile daily ride that's flat and fast, I'd probably recommend a speedy
bike, maybe even a bike with TT bars or a r*cumbent. If we're talking a
15-minute pop down the street in all weather, then anything with fenders
will do.

For everything else, well, there's other choices.

One final advantage of 26" wheels, even if you're not short: they're a
little stronger, and fat slicks (great for that roll-over-anything feel)
are widely available.

--
Ryan Cousineau rcousine@gmail.com http://www.wiredcola.com/
"My scenarios may give the impression I could be an excellent crook.
Not true - I am a talented lawyer." - Sandy in rec.bicycles.racing

[Camilo]

On Apr 22, 10:46*pm, TBerk <bayareab...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Apr 22, 12:31 pm, m...@privacy.net wrote:
>
> > TBerk <bayareab...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > >This puts me in the saddle quite a bit so I end up tuning the thing in
> > >these ways:
>
> > What size rims you like for commuting?
>
> > 700c or 26"
>
> 26" rims seem like Mountain Bike size, with most tire choices being
> knobby and everything.
>
> I find I prefer 27"/700mm size rims, road bike type even, with a
> smooth wider tire than most ten speeds and w/ a high air pressure.
>
> TBerk

26 is indeed usuall mountain bike size. However there are smooth
tires available for that rim as narrow as 1.25 or even down to 1
inch. That translates to a 25-35 mm tire, very similar to what you're
probably running on your 27/700c wheels. In other words, you can put
virtually the same size and type of tires on a 26 wheel.

Last summer, in an attempt to get my wife to ride more, I converted
her MTB to a street bike by putting 1.25" slick tires on it (doing
some work with handlebars too). She eventually bought a 700c hybrid
because it was just more comfortable, but looking at the two bikes
from a distance, they look very similar from tires to handlebars,
except one has smaller wheels.

[me@privacy.net]

Ryan Cousineau <rcousine@gmail.com> wrote:

> or a r*cumbent.

Now there is something I want to try... a bent!!

I wish I could find a cheap one tho.... to try out and
make sure I like it and works for me.... before buying
a really good one

[TBerk]

On Apr 23, 6:25 am, Ryan Cousineau <rcous...@gmail.com> wrote:
<snip>
> 26" slicks are pretty widely available. My local bike shop has cheap and
> cheerful 26" slicks for $10 apiece, and many more exotic choices are
> just a mail-order (or better bike shop) away.
>
> If you're around 5'6" or less, one consideration is that a commuter bike
> with fenders and 700c wheels will mean a lot of toe overlap.

Hmm, hadn't considered this; I'm over 5.6', but truthfully I did
encounter toe-lap when I bent my forks the other day. (It involved a
truck, a steeply angled and slick storm grate, and a split second
decision that ended up vaulting me over the bars.) All the rest of
that day I was trying to figure out why my boots were rubbing the
front tire in the turns. ;])

<snip>
> I'd also say there's commutes and there's commutes. If we're talking a
> 20 mile daily ride that's flat and fast, I'd probably recommend a speedy
> bike, maybe even a bike with TT bars or a r*cumbent. If we're talking a
> 15-minute pop down the street in all weather, then anything with fenders
> will do.

Mine has traditionally been 15, 20 mins in any weather to get to the
train, then about the same on the other end. I'm in a Urban/Suburban
environment, depending.

Strong, easy rolling, light weight, low factor of attractiveness to
foil thieves' avarice; these are my criteria, (pretty much in order).


TBerk

[Tom Sherman]

Ryan Cousineau wrote:
> [...]
> I'd also say there's commutes and there's commutes. If we're talking a
> 20 mile daily ride that's flat and fast, I'd probably recommend a speedy
> bike, maybe even a bike with TT bars or a r*cumbent.[...]

Only a dork (dorque?) would consider commuting on a recumbent.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

[Tom Sherman]

me@privacy.net wrote:
> Ryan Cousineau <rcousine@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> or a r*cumbent.
>
> Now there is something I want to try... a bent!!
>
> I wish I could find a cheap one tho.... to try out and
> make sure I like it and works for me.... before buying
> a really good one

Well, you can probably find a decent used 'bent in the $400-500 US range.

An important consideration with recumbents is that they vary much more
in riding position and handling that uprights do, and what may be most
to one person's taste such as a low bottom bracket, long wheelbase bike
may not be satisfactory for another.

In addition, the 'bent a person finds most to their long term preference
may not be one that is easy for the beginning 'bent rider to adjust to.

The trial and error is great fun, but may be hard on the wallet.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

[clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada]

On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 10:28:11 -0500, me@privacy.net wrote:

>Ryan Cousineau <rcousine@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> or a r*cumbent.
>
>Now there is something I want to try... a bent!!
>
>I wish I could find a cheap one tho.... to try out and
>make sure I like it and works for me.... before buying
>a really good one


Make yourself a CruzBike clone. Quite simple and cheap.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

[me@privacy.net]

TBerk <bayareaberk@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Mine has traditionally been 15, 20 mins in any weather to get to the
>train, then about the same on the other end. I'm in a Urban/Suburban
>environment, depending.

how do you haul your bike on the train?

[Ryan Cousineau]

In article
<3269910b-9649-47ba-a5ed-aba040a00892@v26g2000prm.googlegroups.com>,
TBerk <bayareaberk@yahoo.com> wrote:

> On Apr 23, 6:25 am, Ryan Cousineau <rcous...@gmail.com> wrote:
> <snip>
> > 26" slicks are pretty widely available. My local bike shop has cheap and
> > cheerful 26" slicks for $10 apiece, and many more exotic choices are
> > just a mail-order (or better bike shop) away.
> >
> > If you're around 5'6" or less, one consideration is that a commuter bike
> > with fenders and 700c wheels will mean a lot of toe overlap.
>
> Hmm, hadn't considered this; I'm over 5.6', but truthfully I did
> encounter toe-lap when I bent my forks the other day. (It involved a
> truck, a steeply angled and slick storm grate, and a split second
> decision that ended up vaulting me over the bars.) All the rest of
> that day I was trying to figure out why my boots were rubbing the
> front tire in the turns. ;])
>
> <snip>
> > I'd also say there's commutes and there's commutes. If we're talking a
> > 20 mile daily ride that's flat and fast, I'd probably recommend a speedy
> > bike, maybe even a bike with TT bars or a r*cumbent. If we're talking a
> > 15-minute pop down the street in all weather, then anything with fenders
> > will do.
>
> Mine has traditionally been 15, 20 mins in any weather to get to the
> train, then about the same on the other end. I'm in a Urban/Suburban
> environment, depending.

Anything with fenders will work.

> Strong, easy rolling, light weight, low factor of attractiveness to
> foil thieves' avarice; these are my criteria, (pretty much in order).

Given those priorities, I'd use a quick touring bike, possibly something
with its stickers taken off.

Strength argues for a rigid 26" bike over a 700c bike, but since people
have happily ridden around the world on 700c wheels, that argument is
faintly silly.

If it was me, I'd buy an early 1980s touring bike and excuse the cheap
price with the claim that it is nearly theft-proof.

If cost really is no object, something like a de-decalled and
painted-black Habanero Ti frame in CX/touring guise would be rust-proof,
bomb-proof, and theft...resistant? It wouldn't have to look like
anything. Light, too.

Habanero isn't the only maker of cheap-and-cheerful Ti frames, there are
others. The rolling spec for such a bike would start at less than $2000.

But you could get a pristine, first-rate early-80s touring bike for
about $200, maybe $300 on a bad day. That bike would have no substantial
downsides unless you are heavy (might want to upgrade to a freehub-based
rear wheel) or really committed on the weight thing.

I'm reluctant to make more specific recommendations, simply because many
bikes will do for you. If it can fit fenders on it and afford it, you
can probably use it.

An Alfine 8-speed gearhub-based bike might be a fun choice, too. There
are lots of those, and the shifting is pretty much foolproof.

Stuff like shifting style and handlebar style are largely matters of
taste. With the wheels, go for ones with 32-36 spokes and you'll be
happy. That's about it.

--
Ryan Cousineau rcousine@gmail.com http://www.wiredcola.com/
"In other newsgroups, they killfile trolls."
"In rec.bicycles.racing, we coach them."

[carlfogel@comcast.net]

On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:06:33 -0500, me@privacy.net wrote:

>TBerk <bayareaberk@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>Mine has traditionally been 15, 20 mins in any weather to get to the
>>train, then about the same on the other end. I'm in a Urban/Suburban
>>environment, depending.
>
>how do you haul your bike on the train?

Dear M,

1878 method of hauling bike on train:
http://i31.tinypic.com/2a0doie.jpg

1899 method of hauling bike by train:
http://arrts-arrchives.com/images/qqcbrmmm3.jpg

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

[TBerk]

On Apr 23, 10:06 am, m...@privacy.net wrote:
> TBerk <bayareab...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >Mine has traditionally been 15, 20 mins in any weather to get to the
> >train, then about the same on the other end. I'm in a Urban/Suburban
> >environment, depending.
>
> how do you haul your bike on the train?

I put it on my shoulder to climb into the thing in example A.

Old School Train
http://caltrain.org/caltrain_bike_FAQs.html


And I deal with stairs to elevated platforms in case B.

New School Train
http://www.bart.gov/guide/bikes/bikeOverview.asp



TBerk

[Carl Sundquist]

<carlfogel@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:u7uu041cbnvlgnhgcinv7n8j0dluu1ur21@4ax.com...

>>how do you haul your bike on the train?

> 1899 method of hauling bike by train:
> http://arrts-arrchives.com/images/qqcbrmmm3.jpg
>

That should be hauling bike _by_ train, not _on_ train.

[carlfogel@comcast.net]

On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 13:23:41 -0500, "Carl Sundquist" <carlsun@cox.net>
wrote:

>
><carlfogel@comcast.net> wrote in message
>news:u7uu041cbnvlgnhgcinv7n8j0dluu1ur21@4ax.com...
>
>>>how do you haul your bike on the train?
>
>> 1899 method of hauling bike by train:
>> http://arrts-arrchives.com/images/qqcbrmmm3.jpg
>>
>
>That should be hauling bike _by_ train, not _on_ train.

Dear Carl,

Er, what did I write?

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

[Ryan Cousineau]

In article <fuom5g$o2r$1@registered.motzarella.org>,
Tom Sherman <sunsetss0003@REMOVETHISyahoo.com> wrote:

> Ryan Cousineau wrote:
> > [...]
> > I'd also say there's commutes and there's commutes. If we're talking a
> > 20 mile daily ride that's flat and fast, I'd probably recommend a speedy
> > bike, maybe even a bike with TT bars or a r*cumbent.[...]
>
> Only a dork (dorque?) would consider commuting on a recumbent.

It is you who say it.

As a practical matter, the OP mentioned that their commute is multimodal
and all-weather, and that durability was a priority.

The multimodality alone argues against all but the most unusually
compact 'bents.

--
Ryan Cousineau rcousine@gmail.com http://www.wiredcola.com/
"In other newsgroups, they killfile trolls."
"In rec.bicycles.racing, we coach them."

[Jon Bendtsen]

Tom Sherman wrote:
> me@privacy.net wrote:
>> Ryan Cousineau <rcousine@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> or a r*cumbent.
>>
>> Now there is something I want to try... a bent!!
>>
>> I wish I could find a cheap one tho.... to try out and
>> make sure I like it and works for me.... before buying
>> a really good one
>
> Well, you can probably find a decent used 'bent in the $400-500 US range.

You could start with a cruzbike conversion kit and a cheap
Y-frame MTB, that should get you in the same range.


> An important consideration with recumbents is that they vary much more
> in riding position and handling that uprights do, and what may be most
> to one person's taste such as a low bottom bracket, long wheelbase bike
> may not be satisfactory for another.
>
> In addition, the 'bent a person finds most to their long term preference
> may not be one that is easy for the beginning 'bent rider to adjust to.
>
> The trial and error is great fun, but may be hard on the wallet.

I think you can get a pretty good idea if you try different
kinds of recumbent bikes, but finding them might not be easy.



JonB

[me@privacy.net]

Tom Sherman <sunsetss0003@REMOVETHISyahoo.com> wrote:

>> I wish I could find a cheap one tho.... to try out and
>> make sure I like it and works for me.... before buying
>> a really good one
>
>Well, you can probably find a decent used 'bent in the $400-500 US range.
>
>An important consideration with recumbents is that they vary much more
>in riding position and handling that uprights do, and what may be most
>to one person's taste such as a low bottom bracket, long wheelbase bike
>may not be satisfactory for another.
>
>In addition, the 'bent a person finds most to their long term preference
>may not be one that is easy for the beginning 'bent rider to adjust to.
>
>The trial and error is great fun, but may be hard on the wallet.

Yeah I'm gonna give a cheap one a try in due time

Serious

[me@privacy.net]

Ryan Cousineau <rcousine@gmail.com> wrote:

>If cost really is no object, something like a de-decalled and
>painted-black Habanero Ti frame in CX/touring guise would be rust-proof,
>bomb-proof, and theft...resistant? It wouldn't have to look like
>anything. Light, too.

I've been wanting the above for a long time now!!

Just don't have that kind of cash right now

[me@privacy.net]

clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

>Make yourself a CruzBike clone. Quite simple and cheap.

I will Google it but in mean time what is CruzBike
clone?

Links?

[ccarter@new.rr.com]

On Apr 24, 11:02*am, m...@privacy.net wrote:
> Tom Sherman <sunsetss0...@REMOVETHISyahoo.com> wrote:
> >> I wish I could find a cheap one tho.... to try out and
> >> make sure I like it and works for me.... before buying
> >> a really good one
>
> >Well, you can probably find a decent used 'bent in the $400-500 US range.
>

You might be able to rent one from your LBS too. That'd probably be
the more economical way to go.

Good luck,
Cullen

[clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada]

On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 11:04:10 -0500, me@privacy.net wrote:

>clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
>
>>Make yourself a CruzBike clone. Quite simple and cheap.
>
>I will Google it but in mean time what is CruzBike
>clone?
>
>Links?
Google cruzbike.
Make a clone using the rear half of a supension bike on the front of a
"Y" frame or Mixte

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

[TBerk]

> >>Make yourself a CruzBike clone. Quite simple and cheap.
>


Hey!, start your own thread. <mumble>, <grumble> damn hijackers....


TBerk
I kid, I keeed