Need expert help

[mkr5000]

Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
of it for a long time.

Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
both of them.

When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
a more foregiving frame?

What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.

The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
etc and noise along with it.

My question is this --

What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?

Also, the Cannondale had disc brakes -- out to lunch on that -- what
is the lowdown on disc vs conventional brakes?

Thanks kindly for any help -- I want to get something before the end
of the week.

(Also -- rode a Giant cypress, didn't care for it).

[Bill Sornson]

mkr5000 wrote:
> Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
> of it for a long time.
>
> Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
> both of them.
>
> When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
> really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
> a more foregiving frame?
>
> What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.
>
> The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
> Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
> etc and noise along with it.
>
> My question is this --
>
> What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
> 3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?
>
> Also, the Cannondale had disc brakes -- out to lunch on that -- what
> is the lowdown on disc vs conventional brakes?
>
> Thanks kindly for any help -- I want to get something before the end
> of the week.
>
> (Also -- rode a Giant cypress, didn't care for it).

Tell the shop manager that you're interested in the C'dale, but its shifting
was lousy. If he or she is on the ball, the bike will be tuned up in four
minutes.

HTH, Bill S.

[landotter]

On Apr 30, 10:41 am, mkr5000 <miker...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
> of it for a long time.
>
> Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
> both of them.
>
> When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
> really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
> a more foregiving frame?
>
> What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.
>
> The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
> Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
> etc and noise along with it.
>
> My question is this --
>
> What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
> 3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?
>
The shifters can be adjusted to work better, just takes a minute or
two to align the mechanism under the rear of the cogset using the
barrel adjuster. If you prefer trigger shifters, those are available
in a model that would work for that bike:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=14458&src=froogleUS&currency=USD

I'm not too hip to disc brakes on road going bikes, though I can
understand the arguments for in Portland and for areas folks have
mentioned that have road surfaces that destroy rims--they're mainly
just a gee-whiz selling point. Inexpensive linear pull brakes work
better than most folks need. That said, if the 'dale speaks to you,
get it.

In defense of the Trek, with the boring old linear pull brakes and
compliment of mounts, it'll take racks, fenders, and the like, so as
you get in shape, you can turn it into your utility bike and upgrade
to a higher zoot exercise model.

[Will]

mkr5000 wrote:

> I want to get something before the end
> of the week.

Ahem... not a good strategy. Best to look longer, ride a few more. You
haven't tried the comparably priced Bianchi's, the Redlines, the
Raleighs. There are a lot of good machines out there. And there are
some considerations you haven't gotten too... tire size and fender
compatibility are biggies. Everybody laughs at fenders until they have
to clean their drive-train. Tire size is WAY more important than disk
brakes. You ought to ride something that has a Shimano 8 speed hub
before you settle on a derailleur...

[Camilo]

On Apr 30, 8:55 am, "Bill Sornson" <as...@ask.me> wrote:
> mkr5000 wrote:
> > Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
> > of it for a long time.
>
> > Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
> > both of them.
>
> > When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
> > really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
> > a more foregiving frame?
>
> > What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.
>
> > The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
> > Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
> > etc and noise along with it.
>
> > My question is this --
>
> > What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
> > 3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?
>
> > Also, the Cannondale had disc brakes -- out to lunch on that -- what
> > is the lowdown on disc vs conventional brakes?
>
> > Thanks kindly for any help -- I want to get something before the end
> > of the week.
>
> > (Also -- rode a Giant cypress, didn't care for it).
>
> Tell the shop manager that you're interested in the C'dale, but its shifting
> was lousy. If he or she is on the ball, the bike will be tuned up in four
> minutes.
>
> HTH, Bill S.

Yea, it's probably just a matter of adjusting the shifters. In my
experience, every new shift system, when properly adjusted (and it's
not hard) shifts better than any shift system from the old days.
Doesn't matter the brand.

[mkr5000]

Yeah, I told them to look at it and call me so I culd try it again..

We'll see if they take me seriously.

It was the 1 through 3 shifter on the left -- when it was between 2
and 3 it would create alot of noist on the front sprocket.

I'll have to see if that smooth Trek shifter is available on a similar
Cannondale.

The difference was night and day....just a lttle black lever that
would click...on the Cannondale, no lever, just move the handlegrip.

[Bill Sornson]

mkr5000 wrote:
> Yeah, I told them to look at it and call me so I culd try it again..
>
> We'll see if they take me seriously.
>
> It was the 1 through 3 shifter on the left -- when it was between 2
> and 3 it would create alot of noist on the front sprocket.
>
> I'll have to see if that smooth Trek shifter is available on a similar
> Cannondale.
>
> The difference was night and day....just a lttle black lever that
> would click...on the Cannondale, no lever, just move the handlegrip.

OK, you're talking two different systems -- STI or Rapid-fire (Shimano road
or mtb) and SRAM ("Grip-Shift"). Both should work beautifully (especially
when new), but personal preference for one or the other is usually strong.

And yes, you should be able to equip a bike you like with the shifting setup
you want.

Let us know what happens!

Bill "newbikenewbikenewbikeohboyohboyohboy" S.

[Tom Keats]

In article <9ad4c38d-137a-459a-91a3-566075016ce9@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
mkr5000 <mikerbgr@gmail.com> writes:

> It was the 1 through 3 shifter on the left -- when it was between 2
> and 3 it would create alot of noist on the front sprocket.

That could be normal -- just a bad chainline.
Extreme chain angles, especially between the
outermost (smallest) rear sprocket and the
innermost front chainring, can make an horrible
grinding noise, which often comes in part from
the chain rubbing against one side of the front
derailer cage, but also from the slanted chain
trying to pull itself off the individual cogs.

That particular gear ratio can be obtained more
pleasantly & relatively silently with your middle
chainring and one of your in-between rear sprockets.

The bikes you test-rode no doubt come with a
setup known as crossover gearing, in which
certain front chainring/rear sprocket combinations
are duplicated, but whichever of those duplicates
keeps the chain the straightest is the more
preferable choice, and extreme chain angles are
best avoided.

If you're interested, here's a good tutorial on
bicycle gearing arrangements and effects:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-theory.html

The geometries of some bike frames can handle extreme
chain angles better than others, but as I say, extreme
chain angles are still best avoided. You can still get
the same front/rear gear ratio with other combinations
that keep the chain straighter.

Although my preference currently lies with friction
(smooth-moving, non-clicky) thumbshifters, I've always
liked the convenient ease with which slightly out-of-tune
Twist Grips can make the chain fall into place by
fudging them a little between and beyond their clicks.
The downside of Twist Grips is: unintended shifting
by flexing your wrist for whatever reasons other than
shifting. I also find Twist Grips too noisy -- by
clicking so loudly, they tip my hand as to my intentions
in impromptu, friendly li'l races with fellow riders on
the street ;-)


cheers,
Tom

--
Nothing is safe from me.
I'm really at:
tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca

[landotter]

On Apr 30, 4:13 pm, Will <waller.will...@gmail.com> wrote:
> mkr5000 wrote:
> > I want to get something before the end
> > of the week.
>
> Ahem... not a good strategy. Best to look longer, ride a few more. You
> haven't tried the comparably priced Bianchi's, the Redlines, the
> Raleighs. There are a lot of good machines out there. And there are
> some considerations you haven't gotten too... tire size and fender
> compatibility are biggies. Everybody laughs at fenders until they have
> to clean their drive-train. Tire size is WAY more important than disk
> brakes. You ought to ride something that has a Shimano 8 speed hub
> before you settle on a derailleur...

Way true. And don't forget used. I'm a big fan of the $500 new bike--
you get a lot of service and start fresh, but for more expensive
bikes, the deals on Craigslist are incredible--then pay a shop to dial
it in. That's what they make their money on anyway.

[Will]

Tom Keats wrote:

> The geometries of some bike frames can handle extreme
> chain angles better than others...

A good reason to test a Shimano 8 speed hub... Why fuss with cogs when
you can always run a good line, always have positive shifts, and
easily cover (4 oz. plastic chain guard) the drive-train...

> The downside of Twist Grips is: unintended shifting...

Twists are good for cold weather commuting. It's tough to shift rapid-
fires with mittens.

[mkr5000]

The main thing that I need to figure out is the type of bike I need.

I really intend to take it on urban streets, which have their share of
bumps and grinds, as much as I'll try to avoid them.

I don't see myself doing the nice paved bike trails that we have here
throughout the city -- although I'm sure I'll spend time there as
well.

I first decided to get something when I saw this "comfort" bike, a
Giant Sedona that someone was riding and was amazed at the difference
between now and the many years ago I was on a bike......shocks, a seat
suspension, big tires etc.

And that's my major concern --

Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets
of Indianapolis.

So based on that, do I stay with one specific style of bike? ......Do
I always look at what's classified a "comfort" bike, with the sturdier
frames and larger tires?

The Trek 7300 and that Cannondale adventure I don't think fall into
that classification, although I can see if you can avoid hitting crap,
they would be a joy to ride.

I want something easy to ride also so maybe the wide tires will make
me work harder?

I probably need to get somewhere with a great selection and just spend
half a day test riding.

[landotter]

On May 1, 9:50 am, mkr5000 <miker...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The main thing that I need to figure out is the type of bike I need.
>
> I really intend to take it on urban streets, which have their share of
> bumps and grinds, as much as I'll try to avoid them.
>
> I don't see myself doing the nice paved bike trails that we have here
> throughout the city -- although I'm sure I'll spend time there as
> well.
>
> I first decided to get something when I saw this "comfort" bike, a
> Giant Sedona that someone was riding and was amazed at the difference
> between now and the many years ago I was on a bike......shocks, a seat
> suspension, big tires etc.
>
> And that's my major concern --
>
> Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets
> of Indianapolis.
>
> So based on that, do I stay with one specific style of bike? ......Do
> I always look at what's classified a "comfort" bike, with the sturdier
> frames and larger tires?
>
> The Trek 7300 and that Cannondale adventure I don't think fall into
> that classification, although I can see if you can avoid hitting crap,
> they would be a joy to ride.
>
> I want something easy to ride also so maybe the wide tires will make
> me work harder?
>
Nah, ya want something with a decent amount of cush that's still
skinny and light enough to not be piggy. Most of the world figgured
this out a long time ago--the same tire dimensions you see on touring
bikes and British 3 speeds is really a great compromise, around
32-37mm. That said, if you want to start fatter, tires are relatively
inexpensive to switch out. Bikes in the "comfort" and "hybrid"
categories usually come with rather nasty tires when it comes to ride
feel, usually erring on durability. If you've not felt the difference,
wait a while before spoiling yourself, but it can mean a couple miles
per hour.

Suspension forks and posts are pointless on the road for most of us,
you'll soon learn to lift your bum over bumps, avoid them--if
possible, but if you like a bike with them--by all means, knock
yourself out.

> I probably need to get somewhere with a great selection and just spend
> half a day test riding.

Both those bikes could work out, though those of us that have been
riding a while would probably tire of the very upright position of the
Trek, and use the adjustable stem to lower the bars. The cockpit of
the Cannondale's rather nice--but perhaps a bit hunched if your'e
getting back into the saddle. You want some weight over the front end
for control, but take your time getting there if your back is not used
to it--thus a good reason for adjustable angle stems to exist.

Go ride a bunch more--that's probably the best bet.

[Will]

On May 1, 9:50 am, mkr5000 <miker...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets
> of Indianapolis.

You've got several dealers that carry Bianchi in Indianaoplis. Check
them out. Bianchi has a really solid lineup of good urban-use road
bikes. Bikes models like Castro Valley and the Milano series (to name
two) are great starting points. The bikes have good geometry and
intelligent design.

[mkr5000]

You know those bikes well and now that you mentioned it, I did notice
a bit more slumped over on the Cannondale.

I didn't notice that until you mentioned it.

Ok -- so I'll stick with a "hybrid"... I guess you call them.

At least I'm getting some help pushed in the right direction.....loved
the Trek "precision" but the "feel" of the Cannondale.

I may look at some higher priced bikes as well.....those 2 were around
5 bills.

[landotter]

On May 1, 2:50 pm, mkr5000 <miker...@gmail.com> wrote:
> You know those bikes well and now that you mentioned it, I did notice
> a bit more slumped over on the Cannondale.
>
> I didn't notice that until you mentioned it.
>
> Ok -- so I'll stick with a "hybrid"... I guess you call them.
>
> At least I'm getting some help pushed in the right direction.....loved
> the Trek "precision" but the "feel" of the Cannondale.
>
> I may look at some higher priced bikes as well.....those 2 were around
> 5 bills.

If you're buying new, $500 USD is a really good starting point. It
gets you a very nice hybrid or "town' bike that can take a rack, bags,
and all the things that make a bike a thing that gets used. The
controls are right there, and very handy, and you're upright enough to
feel safe as you're getting back into cycling. It's what you more or
less see most of Europe on, but with internally geared hubs. They tend
to have high bars as they ride a lot of short trips in street clothes,
but the further you ride, the lower you'll probably want your bars.

Now, if you decide that you want to ride good long distances,
traditional touring, randonneuring, or road bikes are a better choice
than a city/trekking/hybrid--but the latter's a great place to start,
very affordable, and never a bad bike to have in the stable.

[Pat]

> Now, if you decide that you want to ride good long distances,
> traditional touring, randonneuring, or road bikes are a better choice
> than a city/trekking/hybrid--but the latter's a great place to start,
> very affordable, and never a bad bike to have in the stable.

and he does mean "stable". Sooner or later, you'll have a stable. I like to
think of my bikes as arrows in my quiver---each one with a different use or
purpose, each one with a different ride.

:)

Pat in TX

[Tom Sherman]

landotter wrote:
> [...]
> Now, if you decide that you want to ride good long distances,
> traditional touring, randonneuring, or road bikes are a better choice[...]

How could you forget the recumbent trike? ;)

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

[landotter]

On May 1, 11:53 pm, Tom Sherman <sunsetss0...@REMOVETHISyahoo.com>
wrote:
> landotter wrote:
> > [...]
> > Now, if you decide that you want to ride good long distances,
> > traditional touring, randonneuring, or road bikes are a better choice[...]
>
> How could you forget the recumbent trike? ;)
>
Usually I imagine Katherine Hepburn in a wheelchair offering me a jar
of avocado dip. You?

[landotter]

On May 2, 10:13 am, Will <waller.will...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 1, 9:50 am, mkr5000 <miker...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets
> > of Indianapolis.
>
> You've got several dealers that carry Bianchi in Indianaoplis. Check
> them out. Bianchi has a really solid lineup of good urban-use road
> bikes. Bikes models like Castro Valley and the Milano series (to name
> two) are great starting points. The bikes have good geometry and
> intelligent design.

Don't forget Breezer:
http://www.breezerbikes.com/bike_details.cfm?bikeType=town&frame=d&bike=villager

And Jamis:
http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_bikes/08commuter2.html

It's easy to miss the bikes that are going to be nice to live with
among all the crap at the LBS's. Fenders and bags aren't sexy--but
they're a lot sexier than disc brakes and doinger forks when you
happen upon a yard sale on a March day.