Andre Jute
12-31-1969, 08:00 PM
On May 31, 3:12*am, Ecnerwal <LawrenceSM...@SOuthernVERmont.NyET>
wrote:
> I wrote:
> > > One thing I have never been able to understand is the "perceived need"
> > > many folks have for tire levers - a stock item in many toolkits. They
>
> [snippage]
>
> Andre Jute <fiult...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Oley Maloney, I wouldn't even try getting beaded tyres on and off with
> > my hands. A writer is a manual labourer who earns his living with his
> > hands on his keyboard. I can't afford as much as a fingernail torn
> > into the quick. Anyway, those belted Marathon Plus and Satellite Elite
> > Hardcase are a killer to get on even with tyre levers working at waist
> > height on a table, never mind scrabbling around on your knees in the
> > scrub beside a road.
>
> Huh. I'd never even consider a fingernail to be in the least danger (no
> clawing at the tire required), so it may be a technique thing, or I just
> have (and have always had, through various sizes of bike and tires) easy
> tires/wheels. Most recent tire I put on was a wire bead Michelin
> transworld city thing - supposedly also belted/puncture resistant, but I
> don't know if it's "especially easy to put on (or take off)" as compared
> to your examples. It's a 559. Took that off at least once in the
> process, also took off the old tire, whatever it was. I suspect it's
> technique, but I don't know if a text description will do the job of
> demonstrating. Definitely not like Sheldon's method per his website.
>
> To remove - if not already flat, let all the air out, or remove the
> valve core if you have Schraders and a valve core tool handy. Presta
> users might need to unscrew the valve stem and push it down into tire, I
> don't use those so I'm not sure - it's sometimes needed with the base of
> the Schrader. Squeeze tire all around to release bead from rim. Squeeze
> bead together in vicinity of valve stem, push down into middle of rim.
> Set that part on the ground. Grab opposite side of tire and push over
> the rim - both beads at once, pushing with the heels of your palms and
> balls of your thumbs, using fingers to grip tire and twist it towards
> the side you are pushing it to. The rim is more-or-less vertical in the
> process, so you have the ground to push against. Both beads are down in
> the center of the rim as far around as possible to give the most slack.
>
> Installation is darn near the reverse of removal. Just make sure that
> the tube (barely inflated) is down inside the casing, not sticking up
> between the beads. Drop the valve stem in the hole, squeeze the bead in
> that area into the middle of the rim, and work the tire over the other
> side both beads at once. Check both sides carefully for tube in wrong
> place before inflating.
>
> Once mounted, inflating to 5 psi or so, bouncing the tire on all sides
> and then deflating before reinflating supposedly helps with tube kinks,
> and seems worth doing. On the second inflation I worry about seating the
> bead well when there's a little bit of pressure, then take it up. One
> bead blowout bang is more than enough for a lifetime.
>
> If the above offends since it's not the canonical method, go right on
> doing what you do now - but it works for me, and it's a lot less fuss,
> IME, than that whole one-bead-at-a-time method and tire levers.
>
> --
> Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Thanks for the description but I don't think I'll even try it. I
either didn't get the knack quite right, or my hardcase tyres are much
stiffer than the Michelin you mention. Whichever it was, getting the
last six inches or so of bead inside the rim took enough effort to get
me in a sweat. I don't mind if it isn't the canonical method -- I'm
not trying for beatification this week... -- AJ
wrote:
> I wrote:
> > > One thing I have never been able to understand is the "perceived need"
> > > many folks have for tire levers - a stock item in many toolkits. They
>
> [snippage]
>
> Andre Jute <fiult...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Oley Maloney, I wouldn't even try getting beaded tyres on and off with
> > my hands. A writer is a manual labourer who earns his living with his
> > hands on his keyboard. I can't afford as much as a fingernail torn
> > into the quick. Anyway, those belted Marathon Plus and Satellite Elite
> > Hardcase are a killer to get on even with tyre levers working at waist
> > height on a table, never mind scrabbling around on your knees in the
> > scrub beside a road.
>
> Huh. I'd never even consider a fingernail to be in the least danger (no
> clawing at the tire required), so it may be a technique thing, or I just
> have (and have always had, through various sizes of bike and tires) easy
> tires/wheels. Most recent tire I put on was a wire bead Michelin
> transworld city thing - supposedly also belted/puncture resistant, but I
> don't know if it's "especially easy to put on (or take off)" as compared
> to your examples. It's a 559. Took that off at least once in the
> process, also took off the old tire, whatever it was. I suspect it's
> technique, but I don't know if a text description will do the job of
> demonstrating. Definitely not like Sheldon's method per his website.
>
> To remove - if not already flat, let all the air out, or remove the
> valve core if you have Schraders and a valve core tool handy. Presta
> users might need to unscrew the valve stem and push it down into tire, I
> don't use those so I'm not sure - it's sometimes needed with the base of
> the Schrader. Squeeze tire all around to release bead from rim. Squeeze
> bead together in vicinity of valve stem, push down into middle of rim.
> Set that part on the ground. Grab opposite side of tire and push over
> the rim - both beads at once, pushing with the heels of your palms and
> balls of your thumbs, using fingers to grip tire and twist it towards
> the side you are pushing it to. The rim is more-or-less vertical in the
> process, so you have the ground to push against. Both beads are down in
> the center of the rim as far around as possible to give the most slack.
>
> Installation is darn near the reverse of removal. Just make sure that
> the tube (barely inflated) is down inside the casing, not sticking up
> between the beads. Drop the valve stem in the hole, squeeze the bead in
> that area into the middle of the rim, and work the tire over the other
> side both beads at once. Check both sides carefully for tube in wrong
> place before inflating.
>
> Once mounted, inflating to 5 psi or so, bouncing the tire on all sides
> and then deflating before reinflating supposedly helps with tube kinks,
> and seems worth doing. On the second inflation I worry about seating the
> bead well when there's a little bit of pressure, then take it up. One
> bead blowout bang is more than enough for a lifetime.
>
> If the above offends since it's not the canonical method, go right on
> doing what you do now - but it works for me, and it's a lot less fuss,
> IME, than that whole one-bead-at-a-time method and tire levers.
>
> --
> Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Thanks for the description but I don't think I'll even try it. I
either didn't get the knack quite right, or my hardcase tyres are much
stiffer than the Michelin you mention. Whichever it was, getting the
last six inches or so of bead inside the rim took enough effort to get
me in a sweat. I don't mind if it isn't the canonical method -- I'm
not trying for beatification this week... -- AJ