Rough old Record hub

[mx]

I have a 30-ish year old Record hub that recently broke an axle.
After reassembly (all old parts except the axle), it rolls a bit
crustily: spins plenty long but when holding the axle in hand, some
vibration is noticeable. The cups and cones don't have any really
visible or palpable deformities, but I'm fairly sure if the cups were
brinnelled that badly, the vibration would be worse.

Not sure if that is actually a recent development, since I hadn't had
the wheel off in roughly forever. This bike typically just gets a
dozen or so 11 mile commutes per year. Is this something that really
needs to be attended to, or will it grind away without any dramatic
failures for a while? Other than replacing the balls, what could be
done?

Mike

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

On Jun 7, 12:15*am, mx <wage...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I have a 30-ish year old Record hub that recently broke an axle.
> After reassembly (all old parts except the axle), it rolls a bit
> crustily: spins plenty long but when holding the axle in hand, some
> vibration is noticeable. *The cups and cones don't have any really
> visible or palpable deformities, but I'm fairly sure if the cups were
> brinnelled that badly, the vibration would be worse.
>
> Not sure if that is actually a recent development, since I hadn't had
> the wheel off in roughly forever. *This bike typically just gets a
> dozen or so 11 mile commutes per year. *Is this something that really
> needs to be attended to, or will it grind away without any dramatic
> failures for a while? *Other than replacing the balls, what could be
> done?
>
> Mike

I suspect you have some pitting on the cones. Any decent bike shop
that 'qui si parla Casmpagnolo' will have replacements. New bearing
balls(1/4 inch), grease, adjust well.

[A Muzi]

mx wrote:
> I have a 30-ish year old Record hub that recently broke an axle.
> After reassembly (all old parts except the axle), it rolls a bit
> crustily: spins plenty long but when holding the axle in hand, some
> vibration is noticeable. The cups and cones don't have any really
> visible or palpable deformities, but I'm fairly sure if the cups were
> brinnelled that badly, the vibration would be worse.
>
> Not sure if that is actually a recent development, since I hadn't had
> the wheel off in roughly forever. This bike typically just gets a
> dozen or so 11 mile commutes per year. Is this something that really
> needs to be attended to, or will it grind away without any dramatic
> failures for a while? Other than replacing the balls, what could be
> done?

Assuming you cleaned it thoroughly and changed the bearings on rebuild,
it's either adjusted improperly or there is wear on cone(s) or cup(s).

p.s. it is not brinelling, it's spalling - erosion not impact.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

[John Forrest Tomlinson]

On Fri, 6 Jun 2008 23:15:35 -0700 (PDT), mx <wagen13@yahoo.com> wrote:

>This bike typically just gets a
>dozen or so 11 mile commutes per year. Is this something that really
>needs to be attended to, or will it grind away without any dramatic
>failures for a while?

I've ridden very rough hubs for years - it's slower but I don't think
anything terrible will happen.

[mx]

> Assuming you cleaned it thoroughly and changed the bearings on rebuild,

Cleaned yes, replaced balls no.

> it's either adjusted improperly

quite possible, but while I got it too tight at one point, it now
turns very freely but I can't detect any slop. My slop-detector is
probably not very well-calibrated, since I don't do this very much.
I'm more confident in my ability to lace up a wheel than adjust a
bearing.

[mx]

On Jun 7, 8:34*am, John Forrest Tomlinson <usenetrem...@jt10000.com>
wrote:
> I've ridden very rough hubs for years - it's slower but I don't think
> anything terrible will happen.

That was the right answer! If it's correct, so much the better. ;->

[Tom Kunich]

"mx" <wagen13@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3f5dc4b6-e453-4e6b-a1cb-2f4b6027e6a8@t12g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>
>> Assuming you cleaned it thoroughly and changed the bearings on rebuild,
>
> Cleaned yes, replaced balls no.
>
>> it's either adjusted improperly
>
> quite possible, but while I got it too tight at one point, it now
> turns very freely but I can't detect any slop. My slop-detector is
> probably not very well-calibrated, since I don't do this very much.
> I'm more confident in my ability to lace up a wheel than adjust a
> bearing.

Psst - don't tell anyone but new races even from Campy feel slightly rough
until they've run in a bit.

[Michael Press]

In article
<3f5dc4b6-e453-4e6b-a1cb-2f4b6027e6a8@t12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,
mx <wagen13@yahoo.com> wrote:

> > Assuming you cleaned it thoroughly and changed the bearings on rebuild,
>
> Cleaned yes, replaced balls no.

Replace the bearing balls with grade 25 balls. No reason
not to replace the bearing balls when repacking unless
you repack every week. The cones require good adjustment.
A little too tight or loose is bad. Furthermore, quick
release pressure changes cone adjustment enough to matter.
It is not difficult but cone adjustment can require
successive approximations to get right.

--
Michael Press